Sportmaster Seals

[XSive]

you may have to look in a merc shop manual !

Where do you get your info from??? Obiviously not one a factory manual..

From 2.5 FACTORY Manual...

Gear Lubricant Filling Instructions
1. Remove any gasket material from “Fill” and “Vent” screws and gear housing.
2. Install new gaskets on “Fill” and “Vent” screws.
IMPORTANT: Never apply lubricant to gear housing without first removing “Vent” screw, or gear housing cannot be filled because of trapped air. Fill gear housing ONLY when housing is in a vertical position.​

IMPORTANT: All CLE, Sport Master and Torque Master gear cases should use Quicksilver Hi-Performance Gear Lube (92-816026A4).
​

​

3. Slowly fill housing thru “Fill” hole with Quicksilver Super Duty Lower Unit Lubricant until lubricant flows out of “Vent” hole and no air bubbles are visible.
4. Install “Vent” screw into “Vent” hole.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT lose more than one fluid ounce (30cc) of gear lubricant while reinstalling “Fill” screw.
5. Remove grease tube (or hose) from “Fill” hole and quickly install “Fill” screw into “Fill” hole.​

From 3.0 Litre Mercury FACTORY Manual

Gear Lubricant Filling Instructions
1. Attach a Leakage Tester to the vent hole.
2. Apply an air pressure of 69 ‑ 103 kPa (10‑15 psi) through the vent hole. The pressure should remain steady for at least 15 seconds while alternately applying two to three
pounds of force to the top of the shift shaft in the fore and aft direction.
3. Inspect the fill and vent sealing washers for cuts or abrasions. Replace if necessary.
4. Clean any metal debris from magnet on fill plug.
IMPORTANT: Never add lubricant to gear housing without first removing vent screw, or gear housing cannot be filled because of trapped air. Fill gear housing only when housing
is in a vertical position.
5. Slowly fill housing through bearing carrier fill hole with High Performance Gear Lubricant until lubricant flows out of vent hole and no air bubbles are visible.​

​

​

6. Install vent screw into vent hole and torque to specifications.
IMPORTANT: Do not lose more than 30 cc (1 fl. oz.) of gear lubricant while re‑installing fill screw.
7. Remove grease tube/hose from fill hole and quickly install fill screw into fill hole. Torque to specifications.​

 

[msharp]

I guess from 32 years of working on this stuff. LOL !!!! a book is a guide line to go by !!!!!!

 

[bringit]

this doesnt corralate with what was said on the other pages,as in ONLY PUT IN 24OZ,and yes my merc manual reads the freakin same ,and 18yrs.

 

[ROBERT CROSS]

When I filled SM with 22.5oz it took about 1.5oz more before it started coming out the vent.

 

[BigRedAlli]

From my 2.5L Merc. HP shop manual.

CLE-std rotation-24 oz
Sport Master- std rotation-22.5 oz
Sport Master- counter rotation-21.0 oz

My standard Merc. manual for my old 200 fish'n motor says fill to top and drain out aprox. one ounce.

I personaly never fill to the top. Never had a problem.

Hope I didn't just jinx myself...:cuss

 

[John Richied]

This is some funny chit

 

[msharp]

the 3.0 takes 28 oz. like i said ,some can get by filling to the vent , but the ones that run long ,and hard ,and high and having prob. needs to put in the proper amount per case. And merc manauls are very vage , different from page to page .

 

[F2008]

This is some funny chit…. IF you can’t change your lower unit oil…. DON’T. Pay someone to do it.

:laughing Changing it doesn't seem to be the problem, ..... it's how much to put back in and how to keep it in there. :laughing

.....The shift shaft seal is the releif point for that ! The 3.0's have alot more pressure on them than the 2.5 . over filling will show up more on the boats that make long high speed runs. if its to full its got to come out somwhere ! the weakest link is the shift shaft seal......

I totally agree, unless you install a vent with a recovery tank. Then the easiest way out is via the vent, thru the hose and into an expansion tank.
I'm going to try this type on my spare case (2.5) and see if it helps. Not as trick as the 3 liter but it's supposed to work.

 

[msharp]

I am just trying to help guys that are having with seal probs. and share what i have found that fixes them !

 

[F2008]

Likewise :beer:

 

[msharp]

Likewise :beer:

:at the bar:cool

 

[Allyfishing]

this book says to fill until no air is in lube,then install screw and new seal.coming out top hole.wanna make damn sure im not missing anything.

I read the same as you, bringit. And Don just confirmed with the copy of the manual on his post. The only thing I missed was the little chart at the bottom of the page where it shows how much oil per gear ratio housing. I'll go by the housing quantity. I have the same manual. Thanks guys! :beer:

 

[Allyfishing]

When I filled SM with 22.5oz it took about 1.5oz more before it started coming out the vent.

So by what you just said, Robert, confirms what the manual states as being the capacity for the 2.5L. :wink
Best bet is to just try not to overfill.

 

[ROBERT CROSS]

Ally fish....

Yep...you can see from the pictures on my previous post that I will be changing/checking several times during the Season. The PO was an enthusiast without any common sense. The rig wasn't used much and had about 13mo's on the LU service. About 3oz of H2o drained when I Winterized last Fall, it don't take much!!!
:banghead More than a little bummed about what I found, BUT very glad I caught it before ruining a 6k LU. Re-build in progress.

 

[Redding XB21]

Being an aqua or rose (politicly correct) kind of guy, everything is clear as mud. :banghead I'm going to leave it at 24 oz. and check it every time I bring it in. My mechanic called me and said the shop manual called for 28 oz., my book calls for 24. Each time they worked on it in the shop, Per shop manual, I've had seals go.

I really like the idea of the vent/recovery system, but, the money manager said no with as much as I spend. Next time for seals, maybe it will fly. What might be interesting is to rig a pressure gauge into the vent to monitor just how much pressure is built up w/in the gear case when running long and hard. It's not unusual for me to go 8-12 miles at a time at a pretty good clip. I'm just running about 3/4 below to even withe the pad. I'll check with Badbait, he runs his up about to his armpits, to see how his is holding up and how much/what kind of lube he uses.

I had no idea there would be this much confusion on these :banghead:banghead sportmasters!


Thanks again for all the input
Gene

 

[Allyfishing]

Ally fish....

Yep...you can see from the pictures on my previous post that I will be changing/checking several times during the Season. The PO was an enthusiast without any common sense. The rig wasn't used much and had about 13mo's on the LU service. About 3oz of H2o drained when I Winterized last Fall, it don't take much!!!
:banghead More than a little bummed about what I found, BUT very glad I caught it before ruining a 6k LU. Re-build in progress.

Hey I hear ya! That's why I ask so many questions and being on this board is so very helpful to have everyones knowledge and input. You wouldn't believe the boaters out there that don't have a clue about maintenance. Good idea to change the LU oil mid season just to be sure. :big grin

 

[Allyfishing]

I really like the idea of the vent/recovery system, but, the money manager said no with as much as I spend. Next time for seals, maybe it will fly.

I had no idea there would be this much confusion on these :banghead:banghead sportmasters!


Thanks again for all the input
Gene

LOL!! Show the "money manager" some of the photos on here and explain how much it costs to fix and or replace a sportmaster LU and I bet you'll get the vent kit.

I guess the more Hi-Performace ya go the more there is to go wrong and/or pay attention to than stock. On my old Astro bassboat with a 150 XR4 I had very little maintenance issues...LU oil and water impellar once a year and winterized in the late fall. that's it!

 

[GFinch]

I read the same as you, bringit. And Don just confirmed with the copy of the manual on his post. The only thing I missed was the little chart at the bottom of the page where it shows how much oil per gear ratio housing. I'll go by the housing quantity. I have the same manual. Thanks guys! :beer:

I missed this part too, would someone be so kind as to post this info also.

Didn't have so much trouble with my OMC cases. They just blew up between oil changes. :embarassed

Now that I have this beast OMC and running a SportsMaster I'm going to have to check it all the time. Dave broke it in during the Gulf Port Outlaw class. I checked it before putting it on the beast and it had already spit out the water pump gaskets. GLUE your water pump gaskets to the plate!

Does anyone have one of these vent /reservoir setups (pics please) or a site I can see one.

 

[F2008]

Gary, this is the one for the 3 liter
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204334

The vents I've seen for the 2.5's are like the picture I posted of the shift shaft seal bushing with the hole drilled in it and a hose barb installed. The hose would then run up under the cowl to a small catch tank. One recommendation I saw for an expansion tank was a radio controlled model airplane gas tank. You can see the oil thru it and it has a hose connection molded in.

The other 2.5 vent system (that I'm not thrilled with trying) is a fitting that screws into the upper vent hole in place of the plug and allows you to connect and route a hose up under the cowl to a tank. I'd be concerned about something bumping the fitting and breaking it off.

 

[F2008]

I missed this part too, would someone be so kind as to post this info also.

Capacity amounts at the bottom of this pic.

..... you have a sporty on your OMC? ...Cool!