CRT web site is live!!!

[Dave Hensley]

I think from transom to can, with hydraulic trim, $3000 is in the ballpark.

 

[BP1]

That Geiger Tec clamp looks good paired up with a mariner.

 

[Dave Hensley]

DH--I assume the 'what?' was in reference to my Pony Express comment. The PE was obsolete the day it was conceived, let alone put into practice. The PE delivered mail via horse to the West Coast in ten days--considered impossible in those days. They forgot one thing--the telegraph, which instantly got messages to the coast. PE lasted 18 months. If they could have found horses twice as fast it wouldn't have made a difference. If I were CRT, I'd be looking over my shoulder at 3d metal print technology--a revolution in manufacturing.

No sir. I was wondering what Jon was referring to. The additive printing in metal is still a mystery to me. Just can't get my mind wrapped around the metallurgy. The Pony Express analogy was cool though.

 

[wasmeneh]

Ok lets assume I don't have any spare parts lying around what would you guys expect a complete build with the parts to run dollar wise??

 

[nort]

I think from transom to can, with hydraulic trim, $3000 is in the ballpark.

Brian can be reached @ 705-718-0181
Apparently the design work is finished, he's just waiting for some free machine time to get some produced.

 

[Lotus 50]

I think the numbers are going to get large in a hurry to build a full motor. But big power, re-buildable, and stronger than stock. Something to think about if/when my Promax expires.

We do 3D printing of plastics at work, and the pony express of injection molding is still safe for a few years. There are a material limitations and a lot of sanding is required.

 

[nort]

I think the numbers are going to get large in a hurry to build a full motor. But big power, re-buildable, and stronger than stock. Something to think about if/when my Promax expires.

We do 3D printing of plastics at work, and the pony express of injection molding is still safe for a few years. There are a material limitations and a lot of sanding is required.

I've done the math David, it's not pretty.
Given the current exchange rate, you (or Whipper or I) would be looking at 40-50k to build a complete motor using a mix of new and good quality used components.

 

[whipper]

Yes i figured around 35. But thats useing stuff i already have on my spare motor. I really dont think its worth it for us untill the dollar creeps back up to at least 20 cents on the dollar. Even thats sucky! A good 280 would cost almost 25 after its all said and done right now. If the dollar ever reaches par again ill tell ya im not wasting any time on getting what ill need for a long time. It is what it is and ya gota pay to play.

 

[Lotus 50]

I've got a stash of $US that I'm thinking of converting to Cdn. I read today that the average over the last 20 years is 80 cents, and we are at 73 today. I've got more than enough for the unicorn $15k 200xs, but that motor doesn't seem to be probable, and I can make money on exchange now. A custom after market motor is apparently too much $ for me, so there's no need for my stash.

3D plastic materials are not as flexible or tough as molded parts. Way better than just a few years ago, but you can't get a range of engineering plastics. I've never seen 3D metal printing, but I read a bit about it today. Similar situation. The metal is not as good as a stamped part or a billet part.

 

[XXXR2001]

Ok lets assume I don't have any spare parts lying around what would you guys expect a complete build with the parts to run dollar wise??

I'd guess $25k for drop on powerhead, $40k+ for a complete 12" race motor if you use new parts.

 

[XXXR2001]

A buddy sent me a clip of the 400hp motor on a Allison drag running 5sec 120 something in the { 1/8th mile course !!}

Think I can comfortably say that no outboard boat is doing a 5 sec (gps not stopwatch) 120mph 1/8th....especially with only 400hp. A crazy light boat with a lot (200hp+) shot of nitrous might might get close to 5 on a stopwatch but there is a large difference between that and gps or radar. Please post this video...I'd love to see it.

 

[Dave Hensley]

I'd guess $25k for drop on powerhead, $40k+ for a complete 12" race motor if you use new parts.

There will be many guesses and predictions on what the hardware will cost before actual pricing is released. If you had nothing to begin with, went with the gen1 block, bought a complete 260 powerhead for say $5500, bought new pistons and sold the 260 block you could come out under $25K. You would have a nice motor.

 

[XXXR2001]

With the hundreds of thousands of boats this motor would work well for I would think they would sell 500 as fast as they can make them!!

There will be many guesses and predictions on what the hardware will cost before actual pricing is released. If you had nothing to begin with, went with the gen1 block, bought a complete 260 powerhead for say $5500, bought new pistons and sold the 260 block you could come out under $25K. You would have a nice motor.

True! But....who would pay 15k for a new block then turn around and put a used crank & rods in it? I would think the average customer who is willing to buy one of these will want a new crank and the Auto Verdi rods. This new CRT block sounds badass but if ya break a crank or rod it's gonna end up with a hole in it just the same as a Merc would.

 

[whipper]

Yep I would want there crank and pistons for sure designed for there motor. electronics mid and gearcase is all I would add of my own i meant. I have a Brocato pcm and other components sitting in a box waiting.

 

[Dave Hensley]

Well....can't buy new Merc cranks or rods. Personally I have never broken a crank or a rod first. Always a piston seized first then the train wreck continued to the rod and crank. I would have no problem using a good proven, cryoed rotating assembly with new pistons.

 

[racerx]

and we thought a mercury drag complete motor for 18 grand was bad ,,,now you have 40 grand in a new motor and 30 for a unrigged new boat all I can say is damn...

 

[whipper]

im pretty sure the crt with 400hp can be made a complete drop on to your 2.5 for under 20 USD if you use the electronics and fuel system off your current 2.5. It not the motor to build from scratch. its for guys that have a current 2.5 260/280/S300 and can rob the external parts required to finish it off. 15-18 gets you sleeves,crank,pucks pistons ready for SVS,ACU,flywheel,stators,alt, fuel rail and pump, ect.. That stuff you would already have put it all together and bolt it on you mid . Thats not so bad done that way. And thats the way it was intended for. if you want to {dress] it all from scratch thats going to cost ya alot more obviously.

 

[BP1]

and we thought a mercury drag complete motor for 18 grand was bad ,,,now you have 40 grand in a new motor and 30 for a unrigged new boat all I can say is damn...

You're talkin Gold chain territory

 

[whipper]

Ok lets assume I don't have any spare parts lying around what would you guys expect a complete build with the parts to run dollar wise??

If you dont have a doner motor I would buy a blown up 260 or 280 and use it for parts to finish the CRT. I would buy the CRT as a rotating assembly with there pistons and rods and Crank. its made for that motor and most likely last way longer than putting a smaller journalled crank in such a high HP motor. There stuff is tested to go with the package between 15-18 depending on HP. The 15 grand option is for lower HP 320 and the 18 gets ya the 400hp pucks and assembly. Bare block with nothing around 10-11.

 

[whipper]

Think I can comfortably say that no outboard boat is doing a 5 sec (gps not stopwatch) 120mph 1/8th....especially with only 400hp. A crazy light boat with a lot (200hp+) shot of nitrous might might get close to 5 on a stopwatch but there is a large difference between that and gps or radar. Please post this video...I'd love to see it.

I have that Clip in my email it wont post for some reason? i can email it to ya. its mighty impressive sounding!!