Where would you frivously spend money?

[xb03fs]

I say frivously, but is lightening your combo really frivolous?

A HNR Fiberglass cowl Approx $1200
Less than 15-20 lbs vs 50-60 stock XRI cowl. Weight savings of 30 lbs at the very rear of the boat behind the pad, should help holeshot and how the boat sits in the water, very cool looking as well.. Since it is behind the pad I suspect no change once the boat brakes over.

OR

2 50 amp our lithium trolling batteries. Approx-$1200 also.
Drop 2 group 24 batteries @45 lbs ea and gain these @ 15ea,

Potential Weight saving 60 lbs....however I take my trolling bateries out half the time anyway. Located in the boat so less of a fulcrom effect, speed may be 1 mph faster since the wieght is in the boat versus behind the pad where I suspect less of an effect once outta the hole.

Red Herring:
I also recenctly aquired a 12/24 OMC (should be 20 lbs less on the nose already) trolling motor so in theory If I only run one trolling battery except on serious fishing trips the weight savings would be the same approx 30 lbs.


So what would you buy yourself for Christmas..............

 

[Darth VMAX]

Down payment on a 225x

 

[xb03fs]

My 200 has good components in it and an SVS. It does ok. Really dont have a huge desire to go faster than I run now. So quicker, quicker, quicker is what I am going for.

I already know I am leaving a little on the table by running a safe 4 balde versus an 3 blade, and refusing to cut my heads..so I can run 87 octane, I know I am not being smart but it is what it is, hence the "Frivolous" part.

My GPS has also clicked past 90 going down river before and 89 with 2 in the boat in cooler weather. That is about as fast as I think I need to go...

Also I have decided not to give up my hydraulic jackplate, so I know I am drawing lines in the sand costing me more....

 

[suicidealli]

What powerhead are you running now?

 

[xb03fs]

1995 200 EFI, a newer 200 block was used since the one the motor had was not advised to be fixed when I bought it a couple years back...

 

[xb03]

IMO if you want quickness you have to go to a good 3 blade.

 

[xb03fs]

I have been told that over and over. I have it in my mind that 4 blades are less likely to hook....and I do not want to hook.

 

[suicidealli]

So you have the tall block 2000 or newer. It has O ring heads. Those block are ok, they are just .040 taller than the older style ones. Mill the heads, and have the O rings cut back in them. It will be a lot Snappier out of the hole, also mid range punch will be better, as long as it doesn't have the exhaust relief cut in the exhaust port.
You can set it up like a pro stock fuel system, and run an acu/pcu, or if you have the funds an 849849 box with a pro stock curve.
It will come to life.. Trust me..

Roy

 

[2003225X]

The things you mentioned are very, very minimal in the whole scheme of things... No way I could see spending $1200 to save 50lbs, but that is just me.

There are two ways to make that particular boat quicker...

To gain a little a 3 blade will help, or to see a big difference more horsepower is needed. If you are not willing to do either of those, I would be satisfied with the way it runs.

Good luck!

 

[njj502]

I'd be spending it on a good Alien cowl & pan vs the $1200 unit... I can weigh mine but it's light man. I think you could get a nice Alien for 1/2 that carbon fiber unit. Matter of fact I know where one is and you could proabably pick it up reasonably.

Put my knob cut on this year you won't go back to "trainin wheel props"

As far as the batteries are concerned... like I told you last night they would have to put a 20 year warranty on em for me to spend that kind of $$ on batteries..

If anything, also, I'd get rid of the hyd plate with multiple stacks and get one plate in either hydraulic or manual. I saved 20lbs going from a hyd & stack to a 12" manual.... that being said in a GS vs a fishing boat I see less use for a hyd plate.

Roy I think his is not the tall block but a std 2.5 w/o the o-ring heads. I think a PCU and cut heads will REALLY wake this thing up along with possibly ditching the VST. I do agree with Nathan tho... 87 octane is nice vs 93....

If I had money to burn and I was in your "boat," I'd have two rides, maybe 3. Fishin boat, a GS for the family and a 2 seat drag boat for scaring the $hit out of my buddies. I guess a 31' DCB with twin 1350's would be alright also....

 

[xb03fs]

Is the box important or coudl I pay someone to download that curve into my box...I called simon and he thought a 225 promax curve may be better with the SVS??
The stock ones adjust some for temeprature I believe whrere you always have to fiddle with an ACU right? I don't want to have to go crazy adding sensors and what not or adjust for how tall a prop or how many people I am carrying to be safe if I lug it a little...


I am pretty sure it is an older block that was donored, I think I was told a 97/98 block.

 

[njj502]

Not to downplay Eric Simon but he's more of a 3L guy and he's damn good at it... Personally I'd go to Brucato for the 2.5 stuff.

 

[xb03fs]

Brucato dont re-curve stock boxes.

 

[njj502]

oh. well scratch that then...

 

[XXXR2001]

Well you already know the difference in how it runs without the trolling batts & motor. Does it run $1200 better???

Before you spend a pile of dough, find out how good it'll run with minimum weight. Take out the trolling mota & batts and get a light cranking battery. Since you're running a full charging system, you could use a 5lb Shorai for starting. It has plenty of juice for your boat and can be had for under $300 if you do some internet shopping.
http://www.shoraipower.com/s.nl/it.A/id.106/.f

Next take everything out of the boat that's not attached......tools, life jackets, rope, paddle, passenger seat, cushions, etc. Put only 3 or 4 gallons of gas in tank. Borrow a Yam drag prop from me. You'll then have a good idea of the gains to be had and whether it's worth it.:relax:

 

[xb03fs]

When I go with you I generally do take most everything out. $1200 better, I don't know but maybe...

I do like it A LOT better than with the extra 90lbs of trolling batteries. They kill holeshot and midrange, top end not so much but holeshot and midrange for sure hence the question.

Supossedly I am suposed to have 1000 a minimum of 1000CCA.

 

[suicidealli]

Are you going for top end, or quicker? The acu/pcu is a big upgrade over a stock box. You put a good curve it it, you dont fiddle with anything. It reads temps,etc. Plus you can create a custom curve. the merc factory 150-225's suck...JMO
If you have a 200 efi block pre 2000 it is a good block, no exhaust relief, or O ring heads.......

Roy

 

[xb03fs]

How do you know what a good curve is?

 

[catfish123]

Jenny Craig....potential weight savings, varies depending on your current level of physical fitness. Since this possible weight loss is further forward in the boat than the cowling, etc, you get a bigger bang for the $ you spend.

 

[bullwhipjkg]

why not do both call scott jordan at jordans marine 409-769-9890 he has i beleive both kinds of cowls for sale a alein and a 260 style
i switched over to a 15ilb braille battery for cranking with a 40 amp setup no problems at all can be got off ebay for less then 200 bucks
trolling batterys i dont see where the rite braille couldnt work just depending on troller and how hard u use it
weight savings all around