Optimax Injector cleaning

[aaronmt]

I honestly don't even know what to say to that.Wow.

 

[Allyfishing]

So,your saying you use this cocktail and have really dirty fuel rails?Almost seems your paying twice, once for the snake oil and second to clean it out.

Aaron, I was simply asking to keep the conversation away from making it sound like a combination of products put out by Mercury Marine ie Quickleen and Quickcare, designed to be used in the 3 liter outboard, from being sold as "snake oil" which conjures up ideas of someone selling a product deliberately for profit to further induce someone to have to pay to clean it out.

The only reason I posted was to help other 3 liter owners and the fact that the title of the post was ironically something I just happen to have an experience with at the moment, so that what I had done to my engine ie long idling hours and the improper use of a "simulating" octane booster additive, was not repeated by others.

No offense seriously.

 

[aaronmt]

No worries, I do have a 300xs.

 

[Allyfishing]

thank you Sir!! You have a 300XS on a Grand Sport???

 

[GotMyAlly]

Since the topic veered towards the discussion of the compressor, i did a little more reading on that subject. I guess you really do learn something new every day......there's an air filter for the compressor that needs to be changed as part of routine maintenance too!

 

[Don]

Since the topic veered towards the discussion of the compressor, i did a little more reading on that subject. I guess you really do learn something new every day......there's an air filter for the compressor that needs to be changed as part of routine maintenance too!

That is correct for most STANDARD Optimax Models, and a FEW really early 250 XS engines.

No air filter on the 3L XS or ProXS models (with one exception- some 200 ProXS engines "do" use one).

Can be deceiving- there's a rectangular plate on the bottom of the flywheel cover that "appears" to be where a filter is located. Removing the screws pretty much trashes the cover... and then it's really disappointing when you realize there is no filter present.

 

[GotMyAlly]

Ah.......good to know.
I removed my flywheel cover last night and saw the rectangular plate. I assumed there was an air filter under there, but did not remove it. So, without trashing my cover, how do I know if there's a filter under there?

 

[Don]

Parts Diagrams (by engine serial number).

 

[Lotus 50]

Its threads like this that have kept me from buying Optimax. Is the Optimax more trouble/maintenance than the BRP motors? Our 115 HO has very little scheduled maintenance.

 

[GotMyAlly]

I wouldn't let this discussion scare you away. I see a lot more guys wrenching on ol 2.5's at the rallies than Optis. Mine's ran flawlessly. Only changed the LU fluid, fuel filter, and impeller each year -- same stuff that you oughta be doing on an old school EFI anyway. Starts every time, sips fuel, and still has the original spark plugs after 4 yrs. The only issue I've had in 4 yrs was the shale rock I sucked up last yr at the rally, and it played hell on the t-stats. My last one was just as reliable and I'm sure I'd still be running it today were it not for the accident that totalled my old boat. Nothing in this discussion is negative about optis in my mind. I'm just thinking ahead about what I need to do to make sure this motor continues to be just as smooth and flawless in 10+ yrs.

 

[Allyfishing]

neal, provide your serial number and Don can tell you whether or not you have the filter under that plastic cover. Got my fuel rails and injectors back today. Hopefully install them this weekend.

I agree with Neal. no worries owning a 3 liter XS motor. run it like ya stole it and don't baby it.

 

[allimax]

In a nutshell, a four stroke gets its lubercation from oil in the sump being squirted onto the cylinder wall from under the piston. A two stroke has its lubercation squirted with the fuel through the injector. That oil/fuel mix lubercates the crankshaft needle bearings, piston wrist pin needle bearings and the piston skirts and rings. If an injector clogs on a four stroke the cylinder is still being lubercated so no harm done, just runs crappy. Two stroke injector problem and you'll trash a cylinder in no time. I know a few guys that have the ultrasonic/ flow equipment to do car injectors but they don't get much street business. Most of what they use them for are race cars, and if the get a injector that is out they grab one out of their supply to make a matched set.
I wish I had a good answer for all this on the fuel additives, ethanol fuel and such. There is a lot of conflicting information. The only thing they seem to have in common is they all want to sell you something. Check this Q&A out from a company making ethanol . Makes one wonder? http://www.mocorn.org/ethanol-industry/ethanolwatercraft/

 

[Allyfishing]

Quiet revolution, eh?? I watched until I felt like I was being fed a bunch of bull and lies. The big exec CEO out selling stocks to the locals to buy into building factories. I guess they created some jobs.

 

[Lotus 50]

My approach to additives is to use something the motor company sells. In my case I have an Etec, so I buy BRP fuel stabilizer. Of course BRP does not make it, but they do specify it's performance. Since I am buying stabilizer for the Etec, it goes in my old Promax, lawnmowers, and Lotus

 

[allimax]

Here, this one is what I've been subscribed to for the last 8 years or so. This makes much more sense to me + I've seen the difference in the intake ports/valves running 99% Shell gas verses same model engine with BJ's bargain brand fuel. Let me tell you there was a huge difference in the carbon build up. I've always run Seafoam in my outboard but after experimenting with it to try and cut the carbon out of the intake ports on a DFI VW I'm rethinking things. http://www.toptiergas.com

 

[GotMyAlly]

Sounds like about any name-brand station uses their fuel. Exxon, BP, Shell, Texaco, Chevron, etc. I never use the no-name stuff in my boats anyway, and rarely put it in my truck, mainly because it isn't any cheaper. And those places usually have crusty looking pumps and I question the quality of their storage tanks.

 

[allimax]

You DFI guys really aren't facing the same set of injector problems us PM guys do. At least if one of you injectors goes lean it shouldn't toast your motor. The DFI injector is right in the combustion chamber and handles only fuel. Those motors have a completely separate oil system to lubercate the moving parts, to me a much better design and why they use a different 2 stroke oil. As far as fogging a motor for storage I think that's more to coat all the needle bearings at both ends on the connecting rods, crankshaft journals and the the back sides of the cylinder bores/piston skirt areas. The little blast of lube in each spark plug hole then gets the top of the piston area. A couple spins on the motor and everything should have a good coat of oil on it to prevent rusting during storage. Don't the new DFI's have a winterizing procedure you can go though like the Evinrude E-TEC's do? Back to that separate oil system to coat all them internals for storage. Pretty slick. I'd love to have the Merc Manuel to read up more on these newer 3 liters but until I own one I'm not ready to buy it.
Craig, I agree with your train of though, Merc products are the best insurance even if they cost more.