Optimax Injector cleaning

How often do you pull your optimax injectors and send them off for cleaning?


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Allyfishing

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Ok, so in October when I had my rig in to Don for annual maintenance (which is when he advised me to send in the fuel rails and injectors for service during the winter) he pointed out that the diagnostics of my engine showed that 65% of my engine run time was 1500 RPM's or less which was not good and I should run it more in the 5500 RPM range. This is from idling around graphing and from where i live with small lakes. " Maybe the TON of idling"?
 
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ssv1761982

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That does seem odd to have all those issues. I know you take care of your rig and wouldn't expect any issues to be excessive.
 

GotMyAlly

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Since duck season is almost over and I'll be fishing again in a week or two, I may plan to wait till next year and have mine done over the winter.

Honestly the compressor scares me more. I try to pull mine out of the garage and crank it on the hose every 5-6 weeks if it's not being used. I figure that at least helps keep things lubricated.
 

K-DAWG XB 2003

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The same thing he talked about happening to him in that link happened to me. My strainer got clogged and the compressor overheating kicked my over heat alarm. Had to clean the strainer to fix the problem. I like Neal worry about that compressor going bad more than anything else. Mine has 600 hours on it with like 300 of them under 1500 rpms. Likely due to the guy who I bought it from idling around looking at his structure scan/side imaging. Those are suppose to be the hardest on the injectors as far as carbon build up goes. The idea of getting the injectors cleaned then, a compressor going out only to need the injectors serviced again gives me the willies. The compressor is the original compressor also. I am thinking its gotta be close to giving up the ghost.
 

GotMyAlly

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I can see how too much octane could be a bad thing in theory. Too bad you can't get the lubricity and cleaning properties without the extra octane for us non-high-performance motor folks.
 

scj

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The guy I talked to at ACES referenced how their product helps burn all the fuel regardless of the octane requirements. I have only run a couple of gallons of fuel through the boat engine since I started using it but I know my diesel truck only uses 25% of DEF now with the ACES product vs. before I started using it.
 

GotMyAlly

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I run a can of Royal Purple injector cleaner through each of my vehicles about once a year. And while I'm at it, I usually do the same for my boat. Just substitute that for the quickleen for one tank. It's usually a noticeable difference in the higher-mileage vehicles. Can't say that I could tell a difference in my truck or the boat, but i guess I do it just because it's an old habit.
 

silverbullet02

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So, I get an email (he tried to reach me on the phone) from Don at European Marine (and BTW, i trust Don explicitly with advice and my motor) stating that my fuel rails and injectors are "REALLY, REALLY NASTY"!! The remainder of his explanation below:

"Substantial carbon buildup (such as we usually see with a combination of wrong oil, no Quickleen, and a TON of idling). The good news is that I was able to clean up the rails and direct injectors successfully!"

Ok, so in October when I had my rig in to Don for annual maintenance (which is when he advised me to send in the fuel rails and injectors for service during the winter) he pointed out that the diagnostics of my engine showed that 65% of my engine run time was 1500 RPM's or less which was not good and I should run it more in the 5500 RPM range. This is from idling around graphing and from where i live with small lakes. " Maybe the TON of idling"?

# 1 & 2 fuel injectors were rich and #4 was "CRITICALLY low flow". "Injector was damaged due to a carboned/sticking #4 DI (which caused high-heat damage to the #4 fuel injector)."

I still need to speak to him next week to get a better idea of what the heck I did to this motor for this to happen and going forward to have it not happen again. I am diligent with good fuel, Mercury Racing oil and Mercury additives added to each and every fill up. It almost sounds as if my motor was ready to blow at any time.

Lesson learned. I will report after I speak to Don for further clarification
Craig.

This is just me thinking out loud here... I wonder how the fuel rail gets dirty? It's just clean fuel getting pumped through there right? How could any dirt get there. If the rails were dirty wouldn't all the injectors be clogged before any dirt could build up in the rails? Also, if you run the "cocktail" that's supposed to be so great, how could it possibly be that bad? Makes you think snake oil if you went thru all that and it's still all out of whack. You'd think that even if you do a bit of idling up there that all the running hard down here and your other trips would keep it cleaned up?

I know my motor isn't an opti, but I run the non Mercury approved black fuel lines from the parts store (5 + years now), run seafoam every once in a blue moon, stabil in the winter months, don't change my fuel filter like they say (I cut my last one apart after a couple few years on there and was clean as could be) and when I sent my injectors off after 4+ years they were almost perfectly in spec before cleaning. I do idle a bit, although not as much as you doing graphing, but I run mine like a normal boater with the occasional wide open pass when I'm playing. A lot of trips in the summer I bet I'm never over 40mph.

Another side note, I use a petroleum product of some sort when I put the water impeller in for a little lube, do compression tests without the hose hooked up, sometimes bump the key at the house with no water, and that same impeller has been in there for well over 2 1/2 years now and water pressure is still great.

I just wonder how often we're sold a bill of goods with so much of this stuff? Not that I don't take care of my stuff, because I do, but I don't necessarily believe in all the "you have to do this and that" to make your motor live a healthy life. How many of these motors go 1000 hours with minimal maintenance and care? I like to do what's best, but somewhere there has to be a line.

Just an out loud ramble... :D

Brian :)
 

rmills280

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I never put additives in don't believe in them like Brian said snake oil.
 

GotMyAlly

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I would tend to think the storage seal would be a bigger contributor than the ACES. I haven't used that stuff in a long time - last time I used that was on a carb motor. But I seem to remember it being real thick and made the motor smoke like a mosquito fogger.
 

ssv1761982

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I would think the storage seal / fogging oil / whatever would not be any different than the ounce of regular oil you are supposed to put in the cylinders for storage. It is just oil in a spray can and should burn off the 1st time you fire it up.
 

Allyfishing

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Apparently not Dave. It was recommended years ago when I had my carbed XR4 not the Opti's of today. My bad for not asking or reading Merc bulletins first.

Let me back up and say something here. I posted my experience with my fuel rails and injectors for the sole purpose of enlightening 3 liter XS owners of what i did. And possibly saving some aggravation or a blown motor. And I would never think that either of them would be "selling me a bill of goods" either. I do not believe that the additives Mercury endorses and recommends for the 3 liter motors is "snake oil".

I mentioned someones name on here who is an asset to the 3 liter community with his expertise and FREE knowledge and advice to any and all owners who ask. I trust him and one other (I'm sure there's others equally as good but I have no experience) with my motor and do not for one minute think that either would do less than perfection with my equipment.


Let's keep this positive so that words written on a page are not misconstrued.

Thanks guys
Craig
 
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Don

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I would like to add three (3) things I've had to learn the hard way during my career:

1: Just because you do not know how to do something does not necessarily mean it "can't be done". I set out to prove "can't" in regards to this topic once... I was determined to succeed. I learned this valuable lesson again. Not only "could" it be done... I even learned how to do it myself (after MANY, MANY hours of research and attempts). And someone else that had been doing it for years earned my immediate respect in the process.

2. The difference between a Master and an Apprentice is that the Master has failed more times than the apprentice has ever tried.

3. Integrity is not given- it is earned. And it's one of the only lasting things you can leave behind in this world.
 

aaronmt

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So,your saying you use this cocktail and have really dirty fuel rails?Almost seems your paying twice, once for the snake oil and second to clean it out.
 

GotMyAlly

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I would think the storage seal / fogging oil / whatever would not be any different than the ounce of regular oil you are supposed to put in the cylinders for storage. It is just oil in a spray can and should burn off the 1st time you fire it up.
I think I agree with that statement if the fogging oil is sprayed directly into the cylinder. But isn't there an alternate method of fogging that involves spraying it through the air intake?
 

Don

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Not on an Optimax- only thing that ever goes through the intake is OIL and AIR.

It's the sticky nature of Storage seal that becomes the problem for Optimax DI's.

Craig can correct me if I'm wrong here Aaron... I think he had discontinued using the recommended additives/oil, and moved to something else prior to sending his system in.
 

Allyfishing

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Not on an Optimax- only thing that ever goes through the intake is OIL and AIR.

It's the sticky nature of Storage seal that becomes the problem for Optimax DI's.

Craig can correct me if I'm wrong here Aaron... I think he had discontinued using the recommended additives/oil, and moved to something else prior to sending his system in.

Correct!

Aaron, I have used Quickleen and Quickcare at each fill up since I owned the motor except for the time I used something different prior to sending the rails and injectors for cleaning. BUT, those products (merc stuff) will only do their job if I operate my engine under normal conditions, not driving 65% of the time less than 1500 RPM's.
 
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