msethsmile
Funny Guy
retail KL333 is $183/case (4-1 gal) or $45.75/gal compared to $38/gal in a 55. 333 (332) is also in 1 qt.---$48/gal when numbers crunched.
2 Stroke Oil
- Thread starter Lightning
- Start date
Crazyoz
Banned
Looks like I need to find a different oil to run, that is way to much for me.
JaySmithRacing
Active Member
IMO about oils:
First there are many great oils out there ( some better than others and most of that conclusion is strickly opinionated from hear say and not acutal hands on visual comparisons ) 99.9 % of ALL outboard failures are NOT oil related. I tear down, modify and build 1 to 3 engines a week with the every brand of oil thats sold used in them and I have came to several very apparent conclusions about whats good, better and best ( like Sears Roebuck advertised )
I have through research ( and observed failures first hand NOT hear say stories) come to the conclusion that steel sleeved engines live better on a blend, no matter who's blend.. Pen, Mercury ( Golden Spectro ) , etc...And a syn oil can be used on steel IF the ring thrust tention has lessoned so that the ring is not applying to much outboard thrust pressure to the bore ( OR TOTALLY BROKE IN )
Coated sleeved engines run and make MORE power on 100% syn oils after break - in on dino ( about 100 gallons of gas ran thru with the dino oil ) ( the reason Mercury doesn't suggest the running of a 100% syn oils in the race engines is THEY DON'T SELL OR OFFER ONE !!!!!.)
Certain oils that are designed to be recreational in nature should be used in engines turning 8000 or less rpms and under less stress. Anything turning over 8000 for extended run life at BIG rpms should use a specific oil for the stress and load those engines create.
As I said there are many good oils out there but always be careful listening to the "oil experts" most of the time there is a hidden agenda , THEY SELL IT AND MAKE A LIVING WITH YOU FOLLOWING THEIR SUGGESTIONS that results in AN OIL SALES and $$$ in their pocket.. I on the other hand don't make a dime on a drop of oil sales.
There are IMO two oils I have seen ran and litterly peel the chrome off the journal of a Mercury V-6 crank.Other than those two Bad Actors I don't think there are any TCW3 approved oils that would blow up a motor due to lack of quality,under recreational loads syn and or dino in make up , most outboards engines have way more reasons and causes for failure than oil quality...I'd say 99 to 1. Quanity or lack there of of oil takes many more out that quality..
Most of the time availability and price on recreational 2 cycle engine oil sales will always turn me toward Penn., or Mercury as they are always available at Wally World or most larger auto and sporting good outlets. IMO to ship a big $$ over kill oil for a recreational engine from miles away and eat not only the over kill price of the oil but the freight in these economic times is a bit ..... well your call. BUT if your stressing a motor over the protection of the "norm" by all means buy an oil to protect your investment..
Happy Boating,
Jay
First there are many great oils out there ( some better than others and most of that conclusion is strickly opinionated from hear say and not acutal hands on visual comparisons ) 99.9 % of ALL outboard failures are NOT oil related. I tear down, modify and build 1 to 3 engines a week with the every brand of oil thats sold used in them and I have came to several very apparent conclusions about whats good, better and best ( like Sears Roebuck advertised )
I have through research ( and observed failures first hand NOT hear say stories) come to the conclusion that steel sleeved engines live better on a blend, no matter who's blend.. Pen, Mercury ( Golden Spectro ) , etc...And a syn oil can be used on steel IF the ring thrust tention has lessoned so that the ring is not applying to much outboard thrust pressure to the bore ( OR TOTALLY BROKE IN )
Coated sleeved engines run and make MORE power on 100% syn oils after break - in on dino ( about 100 gallons of gas ran thru with the dino oil ) ( the reason Mercury doesn't suggest the running of a 100% syn oils in the race engines is THEY DON'T SELL OR OFFER ONE !!!!!.)
Certain oils that are designed to be recreational in nature should be used in engines turning 8000 or less rpms and under less stress. Anything turning over 8000 for extended run life at BIG rpms should use a specific oil for the stress and load those engines create.
As I said there are many good oils out there but always be careful listening to the "oil experts" most of the time there is a hidden agenda , THEY SELL IT AND MAKE A LIVING WITH YOU FOLLOWING THEIR SUGGESTIONS that results in AN OIL SALES and $$$ in their pocket.. I on the other hand don't make a dime on a drop of oil sales.
There are IMO two oils I have seen ran and litterly peel the chrome off the journal of a Mercury V-6 crank.Other than those two Bad Actors I don't think there are any TCW3 approved oils that would blow up a motor due to lack of quality,under recreational loads syn and or dino in make up , most outboards engines have way more reasons and causes for failure than oil quality...I'd say 99 to 1. Quanity or lack there of of oil takes many more out that quality..
Most of the time availability and price on recreational 2 cycle engine oil sales will always turn me toward Penn., or Mercury as they are always available at Wally World or most larger auto and sporting good outlets. IMO to ship a big $$ over kill oil for a recreational engine from miles away and eat not only the over kill price of the oil but the freight in these economic times is a bit ..... well your call. BUT if your stressing a motor over the protection of the "norm" by all means buy an oil to protect your investment..
Happy Boating,
Jay
Last edited:
Crazyoz
Banned
Thanks for the input Jay, I think you just made my mind up for me.