catfish123
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2005
- Messages
- 1,938
- Points
- 38
It is only a guess---------------people changing over before a motor was fully broken in????????
2 Stroke Oil
- Thread starter Lightning
- Start date
Hydropromax
Active Member
Quick Silver Premium Plus For Me None Of That Stop And Go Penzoil For Me. I've Seen The Insides Of Too Many Blown Motors That Were Penzoil. I'm Pretty Sure The Penzoil Burns Really Clean, But Thats Not Always What You Want. I Like To See A Little Black In Chambers From The Ash.
msethsmile
Funny Guy
I use Klotz kl333 like JR. Mostly, use golden spectro (syn) on steel and nic motors. Used to buy GS and Klotz 55 gal at a time.--Those were the days...
Lightning
Active Member
In doing some research, it looks like it isn't a good idea to run fully synthetic oil in a steel sleeved motor because it can allow the liners to get surface rust while set up for a period of time where a natural based oil will not do this. Has anyone pull apart a motor and actually seen this? I guess it wouldn't be a problem if the motor is ran often.
GotMyAlly
Well-Known Member
I wonder what period of time it takes for it to rust up?
2 wks? 2 months? 6 months?
The longest mine has EVER sat without being ran is 6-8 wks. If it is in the dead of winter and I don't get it out more frequently than that, i pull it out in the driveway and run in on the hose for 15 minutes.
2 wks? 2 months? 6 months?
The longest mine has EVER sat without being ran is 6-8 wks. If it is in the dead of winter and I don't get it out more frequently than that, i pull it out in the driveway and run in on the hose for 15 minutes.
In all the Penzoil adds and on the oil containers they say they are fully up to the standards of the industry and the standards organizations. This means that the oil contains rust inhibitors. Please respond if you know something different.
Jim
Jim
JR
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
- Messages
- 949
- Points
- 0
Most airplane owners have switched to Aeroshell oil since it is a blend. The fossil oil prevents the bores from rusting and the synthetic stays up in the top of the engine to keep the cam followers from a dry startup. Some airplanes are not used often and neither are some outboards. The only two stroke corrosion failures I ever had were due to the needle bearings rusting in MX, minibike and gokart engines that sat for months. Chainsaws also have the same problem.
Lightning
Active Member
Looking into it some more I was finding alot of testing results from aviation oils. Most were synthetic blends and a few were conventional oils. I didn't see any that were fully synthetic. Now I know this isn't the same type of engine, but the principle seems the same for the rusting issue and it would be alot more critcial in an airplane engine. Outboard engines, like aircraft engines, are used intermittently and condensation can form and this spawns tiny rust spots when not used regularly. Among some of the reasons that were stated for the blend being better was a semi-synthetic oil takes advantage of the oxidative stability, high-temperature performance, highly effective additive packages and excellent lubricating properties of synthetic oils without sacrificing the natural solvency provided by mineral oil.
It seemed to me what they were saying is the rust inhibitors work better in a blended oil rather than a fully synthetic.
Last edited:
Hydropromax
Active Member
Quicksilver Premium Plus.
R
Redding XB21
Guest
Is anyone using Red Line or Royal Purple TCW-3 injection oil in their 3L? I found a source at about $24-$25 gal.
RedAllison
Well-Known Member
For the same money and simplicity I just get Merc. Prem. Plus at Wallyworld. BUT I wouldn't doubt the Royal Purple IS very good stuff. I like their products, I've used their motor oil (4strk) I use their lube on my guns and reels as well as just drained and refilled the oil in my trailer bearings with Royal Purple.
I bought the 50W oil for my trailer bearings at O'reillys, didn't look to see if they stocked the 2stroke stuff. :at the bar
RA
I bought the 50W oil for my trailer bearings at O'reillys, didn't look to see if they stocked the 2stroke stuff. :at the bar
RA
h2oskiier30
Well-Known Member
Currently, Jay recommends Merc Prem Plus for break-in on steel motors, then if desired, switch over to full synthetic after 50 hours. He says the dino has much better film strength over the syns, and works itself into the pores of the steel better.
He did say that break-in with Pennzoil Synthetic Blend is acceptable, also. He's a huge fan of Pennzoil brand oils...both the blend and the full synthetic. Says that the motors he pulls apart that have run the full synthetic are some of the cleanest he's ever seen. He also says that he's never pulled a Pennzoil engine apart that had an oil related failure.
I've asked him a lot of questions over the last few weeks regarding this, due to starting break-in of my rebuilt powerhead.
TIFWIW.
He did say that break-in with Pennzoil Synthetic Blend is acceptable, also. He's a huge fan of Pennzoil brand oils...both the blend and the full synthetic. Says that the motors he pulls apart that have run the full synthetic are some of the cleanest he's ever seen. He also says that he's never pulled a Pennzoil engine apart that had an oil related failure.
I've asked him a lot of questions over the last few weeks regarding this, due to starting break-in of my rebuilt powerhead.
TIFWIW.
Last edited:
K.Kiser
Well-Known Member
H20SKIER, that is what I've heard from Him also... The pertoleum based oils are better in steel sleeves especially if You used forged pistons, because the little extra heat that the petroleum makes in the cylinders help keep the expansion tolerances more "forged friendly" to help prevent cold seize... I turn Mine over 9k with Mercury Premium @ 32:1, but it is primarily short burst of less than 10 seconds for drag racing...
ARLIN
Active Member
Per brother Glenn's recommendation I have used the Klotz Outboard TechniPlate KL-333 (gallon size) and/or KL-332 (quart) from Reynolds Racing and Marine for many years with excellent results. Same on break-in oil per the above posts. We beat the rap on price a bit by refilling the Klotz gallon jugs from the 55-gallon drums at the store. Especially nice to dump in 3 gallons of Klotz KL-333 and forget it with the later model Mariner Super Mag III oil injection engine on my Allison 21 XTB.
Glenn goes with the Klotz R-50 when turning the high RPMs with Mercury racing outboards.
P.S. Chatted with Glenn just last night as he was playing around with a setup for one of the new drag classes for 2009.
Glenn goes with the Klotz R-50 when turning the high RPMs with Mercury racing outboards.
P.S. Chatted with Glenn just last night as he was playing around with a setup for one of the new drag classes for 2009.
Crazyoz
Banned
Can you still buy klotz oil in the 55 gallon drums and if so how much would that set a man back.
ARLIN
Active Member
Don't know. Glenn at Reynolds Racing and Marine in Harriman, TN would know. There probably would be the issue of having the 55 gallon drum, buying one, paying deposit, etc. Also several local fishing guys could go in together and buy 55 gallon or lesser amounts to split up and use.
Recall Glenn told me several years ago that he seldom if ever saw blue rod or crank bearings in the V-6 Mercury engines where the Klotz had been properly used versus lots of overheated/blue surfaces with conventional outboard oils. Since then there may have been upgrades, new blends, etc. for many other brands and products?
Noticed the Klotz website says in bold print "NOT ALCOHOL COMPATIBLE" for the KL-333. Anyone have a take on exactly what this means? Surely not pump gas with the 7-10% ethanol?
ARLIN
Active Member
Reply #2
From your question, I do not get a read on your anticipated use? Maybe resale or sharing a drum with others? But note a 55 gallon drum brings on the issue of dealing with the considerable weight of 55 gallons (at least at first when full) and the need for a pump to fill smaller containers for pouring and/or direct pumping into the an oil injection tank or gas tank.
..just an additional thought..
msethsmile
Funny Guy
55's are definately a pain. KL333 retails for $2126.85/55. or $38/gal. Dealer is significantly less, slightly over 23. There is no barrel deposit I know of. 30 gal is a little over a buck higher/gal.
Last time I bought golden spectro in 16's (very handy) it was low 20's.
Last time I bought golden spectro in 16's (very handy) it was low 20's.
Crazyoz
Banned
Not in to resaleing anything, just trying to save some money. In my business it is far cheaper to get 55 gal drum of cleaner for $135.00 as compared to 5 gal for $35 dollars. That is a big difference. A few friends and I were thinking of splitting it if it was cheaper, but it dont sound like that is the case. Just wondering if you happened to no what a 55 gal drum would cost, say from a dealer.