2.5 setback/Fulcrum point?

[catfish123]

I'm not "lipless" but have had a lip reduction.........LOL........I can actually run 3/4" - 1 1/8" above the pad with 13.5" setback on my XB2003.

 

[SLOmofo]

"I did nurtal the motor with a level on the flywheel pluss gearcase and trailer. The rubrail on the wings was level and just forward of the pad."


James I'm picking on you, take it with a grain of salt!

What do or how do these two tid bits of information have any bearing on the actual levelness(I made up a new word) of the bottom of the boat? That is of course an assumption on my part that you do disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle and launch the boat and trailer as a unit! :big grin

The only thing that matters is the hull/pad relationship to prop shaft. Trust but verify. Measure twice cut once.

Now, looking at the pic I see your problem! Thats tape is in inches. It should be Milli Meters. Dam NorLanders or whatever degrading slurr is fitting.

 

[SLOmofo]

I'm not "lipless" but have had a lip reduction.........LOL........I can actually run 3/4" - 1 1/8" above the pad with 13.5" setback on my XB2003.

Here all along I thought you did the Full Monty! Is that kinda like Lip-O-Suction.

 

[whipper]

"I did Natal the motor with a level on the flywheel pluss gearcase and trailer. The rub rail on the wings was level and just forward of the pad."


James I'm picking on you, take it with a grain of salt!

What do or how do these two tid bits of information have any bearing on the actual levelness(I made up a new word) of the bottom of the boat? That is of course an assumption on my part that you do disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle and launch the boat and trailer as a unit! :big grin

The only thing that matters is the hull/pad relationship to prop shaft. Trust but verify. Measure twice cut once.

Now, looking at the pic I see your problem! Thats tape is in inches. It should be Milli Meters. Dam NorLanders or whatever degrading slurr is fitting.

I noticed on the rub rail when the pad and trailer are level so is the wing tip rub rail.:big grin That works on my hull the way she sits on the trailer I guess.Even measuring from the top of the trailer to the rub rail at the wingtips after leveling just forward of the pad this distance is even threw the center of the wingtip rub rail then taperer's higher forward of that. Anyway just another measuring mess for me.

BTW. I don't do metric very well. I still use Fahrenheit and MPH on all my Vehicles. i learned to drive in MPH before any metric stuff and Fahrenheit was always the way we talked deg at my house. My dads 82. I went to School before the metric system started. I'm a slow learner I refuse to give in to the governments money grabbing tricks with metric I guess. Ive always discounted metric as a ridiculous method when the one i was taught did the same thing? Its all LBS,MPH,and degrees in F for me. Im pretty sure youll be hard pressed to find a post were i dont use regular mesurments of any kind.

 

[SLOmofo]

James "My brother from another mother" :wink

It's just others might see that and in their case it isn't correct.

The correct way is to level the pad/hull then level the engine. Blah, blah, blah......blah! :at the bar

 

[whipper]

James "My brother from another mother" :wink

It's just others might see that and in their case it isn't correct.

The correct way is to level the pad/hull then level the engine. Blah, blah, blah......blah! :at the bar

Gots ya. I figured that. Thats why I also said i require less trim more due to the higher engine hight. Not the setback in. I like the top of the flywheel trick. You said that one some time ago. It levels and works great. The propshaft and the edges around the gearcase all level out from that point on mine. The hardest part is getting the pad level!! I always bump my head on the darn setback comming out!!

Need a 32 cleaver now and going for 100 next month if I can find the right one with lots of rake.:big grin Hit 95 with a 30 so should be close?

 

[SLOmofo]

Every time I mess with setback or take the engine off I reestablish the zero point of engine height.
Pity me, I'm 61 and have no one to raise/lower the jack in front so it's usually 6 or more times crawling back under to place the level against the hull. But it's something that has to happen otherwise you don't know.
After once or twice, I took a grinder to the bunk wardware where it was a sharp 90 degree, rounded it off. Don't need any more blood letting then I already get at work.
I measured and marked the center of the pad and then marked a line front to rear so I could just put the level up and just see the line. So now the level is always in the center and parallel to the hull.
I have a 5' or 6' level on the floor leveled. Measure up to the hull from it at a couple of points. Crawl out and bump the trim up to level, if it goes to far I bring it back down and always bump it up to level. Why, so the trim guage is always going in the same direction, up, takes the slop factor out of the cable. Take the prop shaft measurement, mark the jack plate and then mark the trim guage for neutral trim.

 

[whipper]

Every time I mess with setback or take the engine off I reestablish the zero point of engine height.
Pity me, I'm 61 and have no one to raise/lower the jack in front so it's usually 6 or more times crawling back under to place the level against the hull. But it's something that has to happen otherwise you don't know.
After once or twice, I took a grinder to the bunk wardware where it was a sharp 90 degree, rounded it off. Don't need any more blood letting then I already get at work.
I measured and marked the center of the pad and then marked a line front to rear so I could just put the level up and just see the line. So now the level is always in the center and parallel to the hull.
I have a 5' or 6' level on the floor leveled. Measure up to the hull from it at a couple of points. Crawl out and bump the trim up to level, if it goes to far I bring it back down and always bump it up to level. Why, so the trim guage is always going in the same direction, up, takes the slop factor out of the cable. Take the prop shaft measurement, mark the jack plate and then mark the trim guage for neutral trim.

Great advise!! I bounce the trim I hear ya on the slop factor. I marked the gauage and have a slip with notes taped over the HP rating with all the new marks after a change. I like that sharp angle grinder idea to. I cross wet sanded the pad and forward about 3ft. But I like the marker for the right spot also. Thanks Gary