Who repairs Merc Digital EFI boxes?

[2fast4mom]

Does anybody know who repairs the Merc EFI boxes? I talked to Tony at Brucato and he doesn't do them. I've got an A-48 box that runs great for 30 minutes, then gives up and leaves you in the middle of the lake.

Thanks for any leads on this...

Lou

 

[Bob Ant]

Did you call Rapair. Don't know their number but the web site is www. repair.com.

They raised the rev limiter on my 225 last year, just not sure about repairs. They might not let you deal directly but through one of their reps. I deal with them thru Performance propellor in Soddy Daisy . I dealt with Billy.

Bob Anthony

 

[John Richied]

Lou, maybe wherever you got it from has a warrantee or PCU? Oh man sorry… I won’t go there

Give Sean a call at Rapair... (866)423-4832

 

[FlatOutAlly]

Lou, maybe wherever . . . bla bla bla . . . I won

 

[2fast4mom]

!-!

Rapair is a good idea, I'll try them.

The whole thing is encapsulated in silicone RTV to protect against water intrusion--and to protect against anyone fixing it, so it might seem.

I'd hate to think I just have to throw it away! I haven't checked the "new" price from Merc parts express, but I'll bet a new ACU is less expensive. Last time I checked, I think the Merc box was like $1356 or thereabouts. >>,<<

 

[GFinch]

Lou, Ya know I don't know anything Merc's. But if you feel up to it carefully open the ECU an look around where the plug in sockets are attached to the circiut board. Your going to need an eye loop to look at the soldered connections. Where a wire ect. comes up thru the board and is soldered is what your going to look at. What your looking for is cracking IN that solder joint. It's going to look ragged in the solder near and around the wire or post.
Also look at the power transistor joints, those things with three legs.
Look for heat discoloration, where theres heat, theres movement, where there is movement, there is cracking.

Otherwise send it to Rapiar...... Or get a aftermarket EFI system and then you can adjust it to fit your engines modifactions.
Hint: http://www.madefi.com/main.htm I think some people might recognize some parts he has made and others copy. :shock: :shock:

Oh, anytime you fool around electronics remember static electricty can/will kill them. And remember don't let the smoke out!

 

[whipper]

Lou the guy to talk to at rapiar is Sean Hill. His email address is on there web site. I spoke with him last week about rev limmiter removal 300 bucks. They are real picky about dealing direct with customer. They usually want you to go threw a dealer. The only reason I could send mine direct is because there is no dealer up here. Im sure if that is an issue Yeller or some one could help ya out. Just a heads up. And thanks John and Brian for helping me with that last week. I think after the sucsess with JR,s ACU the safer bet would be to spend a few more bucks and go with tonys. James

 

[2fast4mom]

I called Rapair and left a message. So far, no call back yet.

Gary, I've been into electronics like you've been into cars. 43 years of not knowing what I'm doing. :mrgreen:

This thing is what you might call "service-resistant". Here's a pic of the insides:

 

[GFinch]

I called Rapair and left a message. So far, no call back yet.

Did ya peek at the MAD site.

Gary, I've been into electronics like you've been into cars. 43 years of not knowing what I'm doing. :mrgreen:

I still don't know. Started working on cars with points and generators, today worked on a Prius. Oh so you want to know how much to keep the Check Engine Light off is going to cost, just a little under 2k.

This thing is what you might call "service-resistant". Here's a pic of the insides:

I have an assortment of hammers, ya want to borrow them?
That goo looks like my lower unit oil/water did, probably smells the same when burnt too.

A MAP sensor? What/where are they sensing? Idle/atmospheric pressure?

 

[whipper]

Lou if ya email Sean Hill threw the comany contacts he will respond with in 5 min. I called and left a message once with no callback? Sean suprised me how prompt he was. James

 

[2fast4mom]

Thanks James, I'll do that tomorrow.

That goo looks like my lower unit oil/water did, probably smells the same when burnt too.

:lol: :lol: :lol: Good one Gary - yes, I'll take you up on that ball peen, please. :mrgreen:

A MAP sensor? What/where are they sensing? Idle/atmospheric pressure?

The tube goes to inside the air horn assembly, post-throttle butterfly, so yes they are sensing atmospheric pressure inside the intake plenum.

 

[one-fast-one]

Sean is out of town. He will get back with you.

Later Dennis

 

[GFinch]

[
[/quote] :lol: :lol: :lol: Good one Gary - yes, I'll take you up on that ball peen, please. :mrgreen:

Well we got choices. #1, a very small, say 2oz used for pursuading idle air control valves on Bowel Movement Weeklys/BMW. At the same time making the service manager or service advisor look as stupid as they were.
I'm not called AAH for nothing ya know!

#2, your general purpose say 10oz model.

And then the small intimadator #3 32oz,er.

Just depends on how you feel at the moment. Tap , hit , or smash.

 

[NCLakeman]

If?????

Lou,
If you I had a problem with my ecu I would replace it with tony's ecu. He has great gas saveings and hp gains. If I could have one I would.

Richard

 

[2fast4mom]

Thanks Richard! I've already got two PCU's and will likely buy an ACU to play with before too long.

To put a cap on this thread and answer the question it poses, today I got my answer from Sean Hill of CDI / Rapair. One-fast-one was right; Sean e-mailed me extremely promptly and explained to me that while they do not "fix" the A350 EFI ECU's, they do take them and remove the board and replace the whole board with one of their own design, with the fuel curve chip of your choice, for $500. Essentially the only thing that gets re-used is the housing and I would imagine the harness too.

I elected to have this done, and will report on how it works out. Knowing the company and people involved, I bet it will be first-class.

In electronics, we call this approach to troubleshooting a "shotgun". Rather than fiddle-phart around in going all the way to the component level just for the satisfaction of saying, "Aha!", replacing at the board level makes sense in time and economics in many cases.