Water in a Sportmaster case?

suicidealli

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I fill to the top, and put the vent screw back in.....
Then take the pump hose loose. I take a cough medicine measuring cup. About 30-35 cc full. I let it drain, and fill that up.. Then I put the screw back in.. Usually Don't have the oil blow out the shiftshaft seal.. My merc dealer friend drains out like 4 OZ. He doesn't want a customer calling the next day saying they messed up the lower unit....... It is leaking.....

Roy
 

Brack

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sometime you hear people say after a hard run they have oil coming out of the weep hole on there GC........

...... the factory shift shaft seal is designed to puke the oil out,......as the GC heats up and pressure builds,...its got to go somewhere,.......out the shift shaft seal,.......thats why I dont like the reynolds HD seal.......its to Heavy-duty.....yeah you can drain oil back out as I did when I ran the HD seal.....but I still had trouble pushing the prop shaft seals out,.....I went back with the factory seal,......as I get older I like to keep things simple,




oh yeah, if someone wants a HD shift shaft seal I have one,.......like new!
 

O'Brien 21

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I had the same issue MANY MANY MANY TIMES and changed to the after market lower water pump seal from Mad EFI. Instead of just 1 seal, it has three to keep the water coming into the waterpump from going down instead of up! W/low water pick up there's additional pressure when running fast & it has to go somewhere. Once there's water in there then you get the additional pressure to blow out the shift shaft seal, then it's time to change everything!


my2cents
 

F2008

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None of you guys have done this supposed "vent fix" yet? If you have, does it work? Seems like it should.

I saw this a while back but still haven't gotten around to drilling the hole and doing the plumbing. You're supposed to run the hose to a small catch can under the cowl so it will run back into the lower as it cools.

Maybe this season.

 

suicidealli

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None of you guys have done this supposed "vent fix" yet? If you have, does it work? Seems like it should.

I saw this a while back but still haven't gotten around to drilling the hole and doing the plumbing. You're supposed to run the hose to a small catch can under the cowl so it will run back into the lower as it cools.

Maybe this season.

I have seen it. Also seen the vent screw with the fitting screwed into it.
Great idea, but if it comes loose, bad news.....

The mercruisers are set up with a hose, and container..

Roy
 

F2008

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Yeah Roy, I saw that external one that replaces the vent plug also. I didn't care for that one either.

I'm going to try the vented bushing. Seems like it should work, the fitting is "internal" and protected, a small zip tie or 2 should keep the hose on.

Of course there's probably some other variable that I'm forgetting. I'd really rather not let water in even easier and faster. :laughing
 

jimbob88

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Is the middle of that thing a site glass? & is that pic the vented bushing you are referring?:idiot
 

F2008

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Is the middle of that thing a site glass?......
No, it's the shift shaft bushing and seal that threads into the case. The shift shaft goes thru the center.

........& is that pic the vented bushing you are referring?:idiot
Yes, there is a hole drilled in the bushing and a small hose is connected to the brass barbed hose end threaded into the bushing. The hose is then routed to a small container that collects any oil that gets pushed out the "vented" bushing. As the lower cools the oil gets drawn back into the gear case. No more blown seals.....at least that's the way it's supposed to work. We'll have to see.
 

Allyfishing

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Don, we talked about this device once before, is this the one used on the 2.5 Liter gearcases that is the homemade version? I do remember seeing one on S&F that was made specifically for the 3 liter gearcases that was pre-made and included the new seal, hose and a small container that fit under the cowling to collect the extra fluid.
 

F2008

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Yup, the picture I posted, that's the 2.5 "home made" fix. It may even be from S&F, I don't remember where I found that pic.

Lake Land Marine makes (or used to make) one for your new lower. I think I remember it for around $150 - 200 (LLM vent kit)

Here it is, or one similar for $280 :shock: 3 liter vent kit
 

F2008

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Yup, the picture I posted, that's the 2.5 "home made" fix. It may even be from S&F, I don't remember where I found that pic.

Lake Land Marine makes (or used to make) one for your new lower. I think I remember it for around $150 - 200 (LLM vent kit)

Here it is, or one similar for $280 :shock:

http://www.shop.hydrotecmarine.com/product.sc?productId=80&categoryId=10

The S&F post that had pictures of the LLM kit and the install procedure, the photos are gone.

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?204334-3.0L-SportMaster-Vent-Kit-Install&highlight=lakeland+marine+tank
 
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Allyfishing

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Here it is , where??

And I checked on Lakeland Marines website and it is not listed anymore. that's not to say they don't sell them though.
 

catfish123

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Ok.........the verdict is in on my leaking case and if I understood it correctly, the water pump housing was cracked near the base. New one is installed and it's ready to run.
 

catfish123

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I have no idea Don.......they just called and said that it was cracked and that it is already fixed. I guess it's just a cheap piece of plastic from what I'm told?
 

Allyfishing

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Yup, plastic. I wonder if over tightening the bolts too much or maybe not evenly could crack it? Did they say where the crack was ie. middle or near a bolt flange?

I'd keep an eye on it though.
 
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