Ultimate Bunk Boards
- Thread starter Myron
- Start date
xb2003
Active Member
Hey Myron,
There was a guy down here that used them. They scratched the heck out of the bottom of his Bullet. They were uncarpeted and used as they came. Maybe they were installed wrong or something but I seen the bottom of his hull and it was nasty. He also said taking the boat off the trailer was a breeze with minimal effort. Putting it on the trailer was another story if you came in a little fast.
There was a guy down here that used them. They scratched the heck out of the bottom of his Bullet. They were uncarpeted and used as they came. Maybe they were installed wrong or something but I seen the bottom of his hull and it was nasty. He also said taking the boat off the trailer was a breeze with minimal effort. Putting it on the trailer was another story if you came in a little fast.
Blue Gray in PA
Active Member
I'm guessing there is a product called the "Ultimate bunk board" but I'm not familiar with it. I was thinking of using a plastic board (similar to Trex material) but unfortunately they only come in 2" thickness by 6" widths and I need 8" width due to trailer sag. The bunk carpet only comes in 14" width but it would cover the top and most of the sides so I may go with wolmanized 2X8 and cut it on the taper needed to get the bow back down on the roller. Any links to other ideas including info on the Ultimate bunk would be appreciated. Thanks!
Kevin from FL
Member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2008
- Messages
- 17
- Points
- 1
Myron, the product may not scratch the boat but if any sand or other material gets between those bunks and the hull, you will have scratches. I've read about people that have bought the plastic lattice from Lowes or Home Depot and cut it to fit.
The next best thing would be to spray the carpeted bunks with Liquid Rollers. It lasts a long time and DO NOT unhook the boat from the trailer until the boat is in the water!!!
The next best thing would be to spray the carpeted bunks with Liquid Rollers. It lasts a long time and DO NOT unhook the boat from the trailer until the boat is in the water!!!
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fishnfireman
Well-Known Member
If you decide to go back with wood.
Here are a few things I have found that will help several Problems --I felt were an issue with carpeted wood fastened to metal that stays wet for days after being submerged
Like you I would love to get away from that combo .
The first place a trailer starts rusting is were the boards attach to the trailer.
First try and pick the best wood you can. Cut it just like your old ones at first. I like to put a little more bevel on the back end where the boat first comes in contact when loading. but be sure to round all the sharp corners with a router. Next I like to leave a gap in the carpet on the bottom side. It allows the wood to dry some insted of keeping all the moisture traped. It's a pain in the azz to do. But I'm anal. I also like the super heavy duty carpet you can get at the hardware stores its solid rubber back, a little tough to bend around corners but it will not unravel where you cut it-- it's way thicker, which gives more cushion, and will last forever. Be sure to use stainless or monel staples. also --where the boards attach to the trailer. Trim the carpet back about an inch away from the metal. I like to give those spots a good coating of some type of ruberized undercoating after stapeling down. Wet carpet in contact with metal =rust !
Another thing boatmate trailers built prior to around 2001 did not have stainless bolts and hardware on the trailer. So be sure to replace those bolts washers nuts etc with SS
Here are a few things I have found that will help several Problems --I felt were an issue with carpeted wood fastened to metal that stays wet for days after being submerged
Like you I would love to get away from that combo .
The first place a trailer starts rusting is were the boards attach to the trailer.
First try and pick the best wood you can. Cut it just like your old ones at first. I like to put a little more bevel on the back end where the boat first comes in contact when loading. but be sure to round all the sharp corners with a router. Next I like to leave a gap in the carpet on the bottom side. It allows the wood to dry some insted of keeping all the moisture traped. It's a pain in the azz to do. But I'm anal. I also like the super heavy duty carpet you can get at the hardware stores its solid rubber back, a little tough to bend around corners but it will not unravel where you cut it-- it's way thicker, which gives more cushion, and will last forever. Be sure to use stainless or monel staples. also --where the boards attach to the trailer. Trim the carpet back about an inch away from the metal. I like to give those spots a good coating of some type of ruberized undercoating after stapeling down. Wet carpet in contact with metal =rust !
Another thing boatmate trailers built prior to around 2001 did not have stainless bolts and hardware on the trailer. So be sure to replace those bolts washers nuts etc with SS
F2008
Well-Known Member
So was I. Still mulling over using trex and then some creative laminating and router work. Once I re-do this trailer I don't want to replace bunk boards or media blast rust again. Pricey: http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/
fnf, thanks for the tips.
Don
F2008
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE=Kevin from FL
fishnfireman
Well-Known Member
Yes !!
Blue Gray in PA
Active Member
Trex is one of the brand names for the composite boards and they only come in 2X6 and smaller - and they are very pricey compared to wood. I'm looking for an 8" wide board because I need a taller bunk at the back with a taper toward the front to put the bow back down on the roller. I thought about trying to start at 6" and go shorter from there but that would put the boat too close to the trailer fenders.
I agree with leaving the bottom of the board exposed to aid in drying and plan to do the same. Getting the water off the bunk carpet ASAP should also help the wood to last longer.
I agree with leaving the bottom of the board exposed to aid in drying and plan to do the same. Getting the water off the bunk carpet ASAP should also help the wood to last longer.
fishnfireman
Well-Known Member
How about using 8" then just cutting out the appropriate places to clear the cross members etc. to customize the height. where needed. Or use 8" all the way and raise the bow roller as I and some more did on the last rig I had. A pair of 3" schackle straps painted then placed between the roller bolt and the old roller boat holes worked JUST right.
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Speedman
Active Member
not be the bad guy, but unless you have a physical handicapp, leave it the way it is! A bass boat trailer is the easiest, simplest way to launch a boat. Ever go to a 200 boat tourney? watch 200 boats unloaded and load in minutes, its magical! then come back and watch pleasure boaters do the same thing!. I have seen to many guys lose their boats off their trailers by putting slippery things on the bunks!
Blue Gray in PA
Active Member
FNF wrote: How about using 8" then just cutting out the appropriate places to clear the cross members etc. to customize the height. where needed.
That's pretty much what I'll be doing but the plastic board only comes in 6" widths (at 2" thickness) unless I buy larger sheet boards and laminate two pieces together. Either way I'll be using carpet to protect the bottom of the boat but I'm trying to avoid the long-term deterioration of the wood.
That's pretty much what I'll be doing but the plastic board only comes in 6" widths (at 2" thickness) unless I buy larger sheet boards and laminate two pieces together. Either way I'll be using carpet to protect the bottom of the boat but I'm trying to avoid the long-term deterioration of the wood.
F2008
Well-Known Member
My direction also.
tharris003
Active Member
Don't know if this helps here is a link for American Plastic Lumber it is recycled plastic lumber and says it has a 50 year warranty. Sizes go up to a 2"x12" or even goes up to a 6"x12"
http://www.american-plasticlumber.com/sizes.html
http://www.american-plasticlumber.com/sizes.html
Blue Gray in PA
Active Member
I submitted an online quote request and will let you know what I get back. Usually such a small order will be priced high but we'll see what they want.
Blue Gray in PA
Active Member
Here is the link to another company that carries a wider board. The first company said they have a 500# minimum order which is about 440 pounds more than I plan to buy.
You can ask for Curt at the EPS Plastic company (link shown below). He was helpful and said they are pursuing the boat trailer industry now - starting with Caravan trailers. The price for a 2X8X8 is around $56 ($44 for a 2X6X8) and shipping would be via UPS. Not sure I'm ready to buy just yet but may drop the C-note in a few weeks if I can scrape it together.
http://epsplasticlumber.com/expanded.shtml
You can ask for Curt at the EPS Plastic company (link shown below). He was helpful and said they are pursuing the boat trailer industry now - starting with Caravan trailers. The price for a 2X8X8 is around $56 ($44 for a 2X6X8) and shipping would be via UPS. Not sure I'm ready to buy just yet but may drop the C-note in a few weeks if I can scrape it together.
http://epsplasticlumber.com/expanded.shtml