I wouldn't use a motor toter it will hurt your mid and gear case. i use those rubber wedges on each side of the hydrolic cylinder so the motor stays straight. Then a good old fashion 2X6. Bring motor in a little rest 2x6 on trim rams then sinch motor in on the wood just light enough to feel it. The wood I use i drilled a hole at both ends and wrap the rope around some voids so i don't loose it. One end has a clip. Its never came off driving for 700 mile each way trips in the summer. you can look back if you hit a bump and the motor is steady and the boat and trailer go up and down together.
The one Jon is talking about i failed twice making but thats the one im going to try and make again. the wedges for the steering are AWSOME!!! I used a motor toter and hit a pot hole,the force cracked the gear case were the suctions were. Never again!!! If the motor goes up at all for what ever reason the trailer is solid and thats how those things happen. There independent of each other not good. if your boat adjusts on the trailer while driving and the straps loosen a little thats another case that is bad when the motor is attaches to the trailer.
The motor is designed to take rough water under power pushing a boat. And most boats, the power that we use are 1/4 the weight of the boats these motors normally push. Im sure the motor and your transom will have no trouble dealing with the motor on a trailer on the road.
Unless your taking air born jumps at a motor cross track pulling your Allison you will be good and even jumping it on the trailer you should be good, not sure how the trailer will fair though