Possible hydraulic jackplate to manual plate

2003225X

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Right now I have 4" spacers off the transom and a 5.5" cmc hydraulic plate. If I went to a manual plate which one would you do...

1. Pull the hydraulic plate off and mount the manual plate to the spacer like it is now.

2. Pull spacers and hydraulic plate and get enough setback in the manual plate to mount it right to the transom.

If I would take the spacers off the boat... is that as simple as unbolting them? No need to hold the bolt heads coming through the transom?

If you have a preference please let me know why you would prefer that method. Thanks!
 

F2008

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I'd go with option #2. Makes for a neater install with less fasteners to deal with. Stronger too I'd think.

The thru transom bolts on my boat (1988) were captive on the inside. Don't know if it came that way in '88 but it sure is handy, .....especially with the cranking battery and gas tank location.
 

jas638

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call hydrodynamics. send them pictures and measurements. have the make you a 8inch or 10 inch setback manual. save some weight.remove all of what you have and sell it. they work great and priced right. i run their plate. very happy with it.
 

ssv1761982

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Steve's Custom Props in Texas bought Hydro Dynamics and they are in the process of moving everything to TX. The phone number will be changing real soon.
(This is NOT Steve Smith that does props)
 

SLOmofo

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If you don't have to have the Hyd plate..... less is more!
http://www.hydrodynamics-usa.com/
Tell them it's going on an Allison, they do a few things to make it right. Also make sure to ask them to cut a relief at the top so the top cap to hull Aluminum piece isn't squished.
They made me a 7"/ 8" convertible plate so I could change it back and forth. Some don't like it because the ratchet catches in 1/4" increments. Butt you can tighten the plate anywhere you need to in between the stops.
Make sure to check the tightness of the adj bolts regularly. Well all mounting bolts!
 

2003225X

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Gary,

If I unbolt the spacer plates from the back of my boat are the bolts going to spin? Or are they glassed in behind the gas tank? If I decide to do this I may have a local shop at the lake do it. Juat want to know what's going on.
 

h2oskiier30

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No, they won't spin. I don't believe they're glassed in, but they do have a "keeper tab" on them.
 

SLOmofo

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Not exactly sure how their held, but the ones in my boat do move slightly but do not turn. If I take the jack plate off I always put a small ring of sealant around the bolt/stud. Also anti seize to prevent galling of the fasteners.
 

2003225X

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Is the bolt pattern on the transom of the boat standard? If I unbolt my current spacer plates and want to bolt a manual plate will it go right on?
 

SLOmofo

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Yes they are standard. Your going to bolt it to the transom and then hang the engine on it. Once everything lines up start to snug everything down. You'll probably notice the holes on one side are oblong , tighten the other side first.
When you adjust the height, before you tighten the through bolts grab the engine and give it a good shake, it will settle tight down on the cable. Oh, cable, make sure the cable lays flat on the shaft(doesn't over lap it's self)
One thing with mine is I have to start the nuts at the top and run them down because the studs are very close to the shaft that is used to raise and lower the engines half of the plate. If the plate is against the transom you can't start the nuts.


If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed fixing anyway!

Butt, if it doesn't fit I just bend the studs to fit, use a LONG tight fitting pipe on the studs. :gasp
 

Allyfishing

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OK, couple of questions.....1. I thought you were looking to sell the SS and get a grand sport and 2. why do you want to remove the hydraulic plate??
 

2003225X

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OK, couple of questions.....1. I thought you were looking to sell the SS and get a grand sport and 2. why do you want to remove the hydraulic plate??
A lot of people want the boat until it's time to get your wallet out... I like the boat a lot and for now I am keeping it. With the kind of shape its in I don't see a need to get rid of it.

I have a cmc hydraulic plate and had one on my last boat. Dave Smith has one also. He has had trouble with his and I had trouble with my last one.... both with the actuator. After quite a bit of research it seems like a weak point in them. They either start leaking fluid, or the bypass valves go and the motor starts leaking down. At that point it is either go to a manual plate and what tou have has no value, or buy a new actuator to the tune of $400 so you can go through that process again. I can get an awesome fixed plate for approximately $350 and ve done with it. I use mine just like a fixed plate now anyway... set it 1/8" below the pad and run it.

I have talked to several people including Lee, and all have said there is no need for a hydraulic plate on an SS. So not having to deal with another possible actuator problem, and putting some money in my pocket seem like a pretty good reason or two to do it.
 

rmills280

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yep no need for hyd. on a ss, 02/03 either, they are dangerous on a highpo boat.
 
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