Lower unit gurus

[zatchmo]

I have a few questions regarding lower units. I have a Bob's built 200 case on my rig right now. I think it's a mid 2000's case as it is a non ratcheting version with the drain/fill on the starboard side (kind of a pain with the LWPU hose in the way). It has a LWPU, Bob's heavy duty carrier, slight cut on the skeg with a torque tab rolled into the back.

I know non-ratchet cases are a bad idea on Allisons, and I think it would be a good idea to get it checked out anyway. The bearings don't feel as smooth as they probably could, so I plan to have it checked out before this next season. Now for the questions.

1. Can this be converted to a ratcheting case, and what parts are required to do that?

2. If I need carrier bearings, I may switch to fat shaft. Other than the carrier bearings and a shaft, is anything else needed to do this? I realize my old props won't work, but I'm ok with that. The good one is flo torque anyway.

3. Would I be better off just selling this case, and buying a different one? This case seems pretty fast, and handles nicely, so I'm a bit skeptical about just selling it. If that's the correct thing to do though, I will consider it. I'd just hate to sell it and dump a ton of money into a sporty and have to spend a bunch more money getting it to run the same as the case I have now.

Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[n66angusbull]

What hp engine do you have?

 

[zatchmo]

2.5 280.

 

[whipper]

Though not a lower until guru I would switch over to a ratchating gear case. I couldnt tell you if yours can be converted for sure but i dont see why not? Lots of guys can tell you that for sure. I think for saftey reasons it would be a good mod to do. On that note the newer motors guys are hanging XS motors that dont have a ratcheting gearcase and they seem to be doing fine with all that tourque and bigger wheels.

For high speed shut downs its nice having a ratcheting gearcase. Even though sometimes they will even hook the bow and need some gas back to gain control. If your motor was a 225 or less I would say dont worry about it so much. With a 280 I would because you can come off speeds over 100. Less room for error the faster you go. Thats my two cents.

If your gearcase is in great shape the differance selling yours for a ratcheting one might not be very much?

 

[Volatile]

You need to check your propshaft bearing diameter. If its a 1.187" shaft, you may not be able to install the fatshaft or any of the newer 1.250" diameter shafts in that carrier. Also in some cases I prefer the non -ratchet setup. Rough water for instance where you lift and then reaccellerate. The ratchet units tend to hook easier from our experience. 6 of one , half dozen of another. The 200 case will be faster than the Sporty or CLE with a cone. Its not as durable, but definitely strong enough for 90% of users. Check your front shift cam carefully when its apart. They get cracks easily in high perf use.

 

[Larry D]

just put the HP ratching clutch dog with that set of gears. works fine have gearcases set up in six race boats in s/s stock, prostock, modified, progas and outlaw. never had any problems in a few years. later Larry D

 

[zatchmo]

just put the HP ratching clutch dog with that set of gears. works fine have gearcases set up in six race boats in s/s stock, prostock, modified, progas and outlaw. never had any problems in a few years. later Larry D

That's the info I was really after. Thanks a lot!

It's a Bob's machine carrier, so all it takes is a different set of bearings and seals to switch over to fat shaft there. I was more concerned about the ratcheting part than anything.