gearcase mods ?

ZRX1

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Looking on what gearcase to run and who is the best person to do the work? I have a like new CLE . Will a cone work on this case? Is a sportmaster that much better? Please include contact info.

OH yea........Allison SS2000 excel. 225 promax (stock)
 

Myron

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A CLE with a cone is very good and fast case, I have had mine for 15 years. It is faster thaba Sportmaster and drives much better. Mine was done by Bob's, but they are not the same from what I here.
 

boater777777

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Custom Weding does a nice lookin case and BWB had a article on em. showing results.
 

Scott Gilmore

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I'd go with the CLE Titus also over the Sportmaster. I just sent Titus a stock CLE & I'll post pics in a week or so, YES a nosecone is the only way to go. I've owned a TON of SS2000's and have tried every combo/setup that I could. Scott :big grin
 

ZRX1

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Can you explain the "CW mods"? That case looks great!
 

baitcaster

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I like the Titus CLE, too. I'd post a picture of mine, but it wouldn't hold up to this:

LOL :laughing - Thanks!

Can you explain the "CW mods"?
Simplistic answer - don't quote me verbatim, but essentially this is my experence and understanding:
Both Bobs and Titus will cut off the nose of your CLE (lower unit) and add their respective cones. Bobs will fill some of the void with inert material, and will tack weld it to the Lower and use a filler putty to even out the look, than paint it. The water intake will than be diverted at the top of the cone over to the top of the lower by one or two external hosed to run the water up the mid. Titus on the other hand will weld the entire nose to the Lower and will have the water tubes housed internally, thus no hoses will be exposed on the outside and no filler will be placed between the cone and the housing. Once welded they to will add putty on the outside smooth it down and paint it. the big difference between the two is the internally tubing of the Titus and the complete welding of the cone to the Lower Unit. The one I have pictured above also has the Titus' hydrofoil added to the unit. It to is welded on to the unit and not a bolt on. It is a little smaller than your typical foil, but I feel it works very well and gives the unit a very clean finished look. I believe it ran another 100.00 or 125.00 dollars for the foil. Titus is a little more expensive than Bob's, but I feel more confident with the all welded nose. This particular unit had a Bob's cone on it (done by a previous owner of the motor and I don't know how old the cone was) before it was sent to Titus. The Bob's cone had developed a crack on both sides of the cone where it was attached to the housing, ie the putty filler and was leaking water. It made painting the unit virtually impossible, thus it was paint-able - but the paint would not stay on the unit with water seeping through from the inside out. I am relatively sure that the cone would not have broken off, but simply did not trust it and until you pull the cone off you really don't know. So I decided to spend a few extra bucks and have a Titus cone put on it to be safe. Titus is known for his precision work and was very pleased with the workmanship and outcome. Don't get me wrong, I have had several Bob's cones on my old OMC that didn't give me any real problems and do feel they make a good product. But on one, a plug came out of the bottom, presumably where it was held for mounting the cone"?", that I am sure Bob's would have fixed. It was nothing but filler so I opted to refill the hole myself and paint it to save time and shipping. But they performed well, I just think the Titus Lower is better and gives the unit a much cleaner look without the water tube or tubes (two tubes is an option from Bob's) on the outside bolted into the sides of the Lower Unit (On the CLE the tub or tubs will go through the access plates on the outside -the polished silver plates in the picture above). In the CLE lower above, when the Bob's was pulled off, I was advised that a paper filler was used to fill in some of the voids between the nose and the cone, which was one of the problems I had in trying to get the unit dried out to paint it. The paper apparently was holding water. The filler did not hurt performance, but again, I like the idea of all internal tubing and the complete welding of the unit. Having the cone break off in flight would be devastating, so I simply felt more confident with the Titus Lower.

Note: The design of the CLE is simply not good for a bass boat - the unit is to small with out a nose cone added to it. In my opinion the nose cone is a must to effectively run the CLE on a 2002 or 2003, but you have options in cones - I like the CW mod thus far the best and found Titus good to work with and he installed what I believe to be an excellent product.

Just my .02
 
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Lotus 50

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I think Sam Baker raced an SS2000 / 225 Promax (not stock) with a CLE 1/2" below the pad.

My recollection, and I could be wrong, is that it was fine for drag racing, but perhaps less fine for top speed.

What are your goals?
 

ZRX1

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To go fast as possiable and have a good driving boat.....Not going to drag it. Thanks
 
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