"Flexible" trailer

2fast4mom

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My Grandsport has always suffered from extremely low tongue weight. Even my featherweight SS2000 comp has like 75-100 lbs on it. The GS practically levitates. In fact, parked backwards against the logs in the Bear Inn lot, it DID levitate.

This just wasn't right and it was a pain to tow. You could always hear that sucker trying to lift off the trailer ball.

I went to see Owen at Boatmate and followed up with Darris at his suggestion.

it's a 1995 duallie trailer.

Well I learned more about those trailers than I ever wanted to know. Condensed version: This '95 is a 1.5" tubular construction and the boat is heavy for it, so it flexes. They changed the tubing to 2" sometime in the late 90's.

The only fix was to take out the center and rear bolts for the vertical bunks and jack up the bunks to where the bow sits on the roller instead of floating when the strap is released. The boat is not real lightweight and is rear heavy, with 11" setback and 200XS motor.

I learned the center, "vee" bunks do NOT hold the boat, they are guide bunks only. The two vertical ones do the job of carrying the weight. Darris says you ought to be able to slip a piece of cardboard under the front portion of the two vee bunks.

So yesterday I did the project. What a PITA. Even though the bolts are stainless, one of the center ones seized up upon removal and had to cut it off with an air grinding wheel. That was fun being on my back under the trailer with the cutting wheel at 20,000 rpm near my face. $3.99 goggles made a big difference. All the lizard crawling has me sore today from using muscles and joints not usually used.

The rear of the bunks were elevated by 5/8", had to drill new bolt holes and the top rear of the bunks are now 6.75" from the top surface of the rear crossmember.

Bow now resting (or pretty much so) on front roller by winch. Job done! ?

For anyone who wants to try this test....if you unstrap the bow eye and the bow floats up, it's too rear heavy and needs "the treatment".
 

Darth VMAX

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Yep, mine does that.

I always relieve the bow strap tension while its parked in my garage and the bow lifts itself up about an inch.
 

2003225X

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99% of them do this and the reason is the trailers were NOT designed when the motors were hanging on the boats. That would make too much sense! Lol
 

njj502

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My GS is on an SMP and it's just as bad. I did notice once I put the spare on the front of the trailer it helped. I think it's enough now to not notice it banging around up & down back there. If I release the bow strap I bet it goes up 2".
 

ssv1761982

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I am curious. Just because the bow is now resting on the roller I don't see how that will place any more tongue weight on the ball. The boat should fit the trailer better but I would think it will still be light on the ball.

You would need to either move the axle(s) a couple inches towards the rear or move the boat farther forward on the trailer. I don't think either are feasible since most of the Boatmate trailers I have seen are all welded.

Let us know how it works out.
 

fnshrmaster

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Exactly what I thought. I don't see how this can be fixed short of moving the boat forward on the trailer. ie. modifying the bow stop position.
I believe it's a matter of leverage. Jack up the rear of your car, you have now loaded the front suspension.

My boat sits about 2 inches off the roller when unstrapped. My trailer also floats when loading, tandem is nice for towing, but a pain in the a** when moving around and loading in a current due to floating at first.
 

fnshrmaster

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It's steel and floats for a few then sinks. Strange, it makes for interesting loading in the river with current. I was wondering if all tandems do that?
 

bec

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I'm going to get around to doing mine hopefully in the next couple weeks I had darris told me the same thing mine s a 2000 tubular and has a lot of trailer flex when release bow strap when parked in boathouse.you lift the rear in turn lower front .im sorry ill have to say again boat mate sucks when it comes to quality and service. Emailed this boat mate with my issue 4 months later still no response.custom line had a well built trailer in there days.
 

FlatOutAlly

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....I was wondering if all tandems do that?
I launch in current sometimes so, yeah, me too. I need a new trailer and was looking at aluminum ones but if steel tandems can do this, I think we know what what the aluminum ones do. I guess I'm coming to the same conclusion as you. If by the time I get boat over to the trailer and it's a couple three feet down stream, it at least makes the backing accuracy less critical. Maybe I'll stick with a single axle?
 

2fast4mom

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Performing this task on the trailer was a comedy of errors. I won't go into every detail, but somewhere between discovering two bolts were seized and had to be cut by an air grinder wheel, then that the local Orchard supply nor Home Depot had the right length stainless bolts (Orchard had 1, HD none), then that lifting the bunks with jacks actually lifter the trailer too and flexed it so I had to jump on the rear steps to "bring the trailer down"...I realized that this was a likely fool's errand because of the point made about the CG needing to be shifted (i.e. moving the axles or the location of the bow stop).

Nevertheless I persevered and raised the rear of the vertical bunks by 5/8" from their original position. Monkey death grip on all stainless bolts and nylock nuts.

The immediate effect was to notice that the rubrail of the boat was now VERY close to being parallel with the tops of the fenders (dual axle trailer). My son commented on how the boat no longer had a "nose-up" or rear "low riding" appearance. It also got the hull further away from the inside of those carpeted fender covers.

But what I noticed the most, was that before the job, if you got low and sighted from the rear of the vertical bunks, the boat was only resting on the rear 1/3 or less of the bunks. You could see daylight through the front 2/3. After the mod, the hull contacts the bunks all the way to the front. This can't be a bad thing.

The tongue weight is SLIGHTLY increased, but by no means was this a magic bullet. I towed it to the delta today, and it did tend to not want to jump off the ball as much, but it is still not as solid as it should be, like my other boats.

The boat now "floats" above the bow roller, on level ground, less than 1/4" off the roller.
 

fnshrmaster

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I launch in current sometimes so, yeah, me too. I need a new trailer and was looking at aluminum ones but if steel tandems can do this, I think we know what what the aluminum ones do. I guess I'm coming to the same conclusion as you. If by the time I get boat over to the trailer and it's a couple three feet down stream, it at least makes the backing accuracy less critical. Maybe I'll stick with a single axle?
The tandem tows nice but I sure do like the single axle for moving around in the driveway. I think if I was buying a new trailer I would go single, no need for tandem with our light boats.
 

F2008

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My 1988 single axle Dynamic does the same thing with my xb2002 on it. With a 225 ProMax and 12" of jackplates, one of which is a CMC hydraulic, along with three batteries on board (2 group 29's for the troller and a 27 as a starter) the tongue weight is maybe 50 - 60 lbs. Loosen the bow strap and the trailer flexes and the bow eye raises an inch or so. At the end of the season, when I take the two troller batteries out of the rear compartments the tongue weight increases so much I nearly drop a nut trying to lift it.

I've given considerable thought to cutting off the bow / winch stand a re-welding it back on a few inches forward. The coupler pounding up and down drives me nuts.
 

SLOmofo

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A larger diameter bow eye roller helps for the distance. I have one of these http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Yellow-Poly-Bow-Roller-fits-3-bracket&i=22037&aID=601T3&merchID=4006 I measured the weight on the caster wheel once, have it written down some where. What I found was a 15 lb increase when the engine was 7" back compared to 8". Nothing much to do but move the axle for the tongue weight.

You could use one of these. http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Stoltz-8-Bow-Roller-For-Carolina-Skiffs-each&i=713752&aID=603G2&merchID=4006
 

2fast4mom

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Um...what am I missing about the above? if the bow roller were larger, it would make the boat not even go forward as far as it is...?
 

catfish123

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On my XB2003, tongue weight was not an issue but the bow was pretty much like all of them, well above the roller, without winching the h.......... out of it. I had stainless steel extensions made to bolt on the frame in order to raise up the winch a little. I also shimmed up the upright bunks in the back so that now, the boat at "rest" on the trailer just contacts the bow roller. I never liked the amount of pressure I had to put on it to pull the nose down to meet it.
 
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