Drive shaft corrosion

JR

Active Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
949
Points
0
I am glad that my water pump quit pumping, yet didn't damage my powerhead [all 6 cylinders are +-1 PSI].

When they pulled my GC to replace the pump, they found my Gearcase was full of water. The steel drive shaft in my Pmax had a ring of corrosion aroung the seal surface that had snagged my seal, allowing water into my gearcase.

There are no metal fragments or rust, so the GC appears to be OK.

I am going to have the drive shaft replaced due to the pitting around the seal surface and the normal amount of wear on the top splines [after 1300+ hours].

They are also going to lift the powerhead to check the condition of the base gaskets also.

I guess I should have done my annual this spring and had the driveshaft coated in grease like they do every year. I didn't do the annual due to having the powerhead replaced last May.

Oh well, it's only money....
JR
 
J

John Richied

Guest
On the driveshaft depending on how much corrosion/pitting there is it can usually be cleaned up to look as good as new.

Replacing the water pump impeller is good maintenance, but I think replacing the whole water pump housing/impeller kit now and then is a good practice. If the base of the water pump housing becomes warped it can and will leak. I think a lot of them that develop a leak were over tightened when they were installed.

By the way Merc wants around $900 for the 15” drive shaft and $800 for the 20”.
 

JR

Active Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
949
Points
0
Ouch,
The only way I could see to rejuvenate mine, due to the pitting at the seal surface, would be to turn it down and then have it "spray arc" to bring it back up. I am afraid to do that since the heat might weaken the shaft, like it does some highly stressed crankshafts.
Maybe Mercs are painted black as in "Black Hole".
I still love my rig, even though It's always thirsty for money.
JR
 

BigRedAlli

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
1,239
Points
38
Location
Frankfort,Ky
I though i read on S&F awhile back,that thier was a Speedy Sleeve avalible for the drive shaft repair.Might be worth a search :wink:
Marty
 
B

BP

Guest
A good NAPA parts dude (or local equivalent) should be able to fix you up with a "Speedi Sleeve" as made by CR Seal.
 

Yellowallison

Active Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
737
Points
18
JR!!! take it LINDY MACHINE shop off Park St. They have fixed 5-6 for me for like 80 bucks... :p Drive shaft don't break like prop shafts!


Or HECK wit yur $$$!! jus call and order yu a knew 300XS and be done with it!! :mrgreen:
 

JR

Active Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
949
Points
0
Scott,
I have been seriously considering a 300xs, if I don't buy an airscooter [they haven't been released yet].
There is also quite a bit of spline wear on the shaft too, due to about 1300 hours of use.
I might take the shaft to Liddy's for use as a spare, unless the new one gets backordered.
We already take a lot of shafts to Liddy's, but I just wasn't sure as to how the heat factor would affect it's strength.
Thanks, Scott, Marty and BP.
JR
 

JR

Active Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
949
Points
0
The water filled gearcase did not have any rust or metal filings [that were evident] but the dogs on forward were chipped [badly] and the gear surfaces were impinged by having only water as a lubricant.
If I wanted to buy some new props, this might be the time to try a 1.75 gearset.
I wish Darus would get-with-it on the new Grandsport Hull that he promised 3 years ago.
That would be a good combo for the 300XS.
At least I have an understanding Wife who says,"Get it fixed ASAP".
JR
 

Yellowallison

Active Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
737
Points
18
I wish Darus would get-with-it on the new Grandsport Hull that he promised 3 years ago.
When I seen him at the last race JR a month or so ago!! thatz what he said he was working on it - these days!!!!


GOOD LUCK with yur Gearcase!!! keep us updated!
 
Top