Any disadvantage going to a 260 fuel setup?

xb03

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Yesterday my promax died cruisin at 50mph, and would not start back up. To me it sounds like it ran out of fuel. If it was the mechanical fuel pump that failed, I'm considering going with a 260 fuel setup. Are there any disadvantages? What all is needed. A pump, before and after filters, and regulater? Will the motor run stronger, seems like it would get more air from not having the vst tank and water separator block the intake.
Thanks, Jared
 

allimax

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you going to be working to see what's up with your engine today? I would think if you pulled the VST drain plug and see how much fuel comes out it would give you a good idea if you're right. I thought the only time you went 50 was when you were driving through it!:big grin
 

bassracr

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i dont think you would see any gains or benefit if your motor is stock .getting rid of those items will not allow the motor to breathe better or perform any better. the only thing you would possibly change would be your ability to adjust fuel pressure if you used an adjustable regulator. check your bulb to make sure it is not collapsing . an inexpensive lift pump diaphram that supplys the vst could likely be the culprit. i would check/replace that before you tear into the vst. as soon as you open it up you are gonna need a $100 + seal to put it back together if it needs nothing.
 

silverbullet02

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Does the electric pump in the VST come on when you turn the key on? I have a motor here that had to have the ECU bypassed to make the fuel pump run because the driver died.
 

xb03

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you going to be working to see what's up with your engine today? I would think if you pulled the VST drain plug and see how much fuel comes out it would give you a good idea if you're right. I thought the only time you went 50 was when you were driving through it!:big grin
Will not be working on it for a week. The vst drain was an idea. Thanks

i dont think you would see any gains or benefit if your motor is stock .getting rid of those items will not allow the motor to breathe better or perform any better. the only thing you would possibly change would be your ability to adjust fuel pressure if you used an adjustable regulator. check your bulb to make sure it is not collapsing . an inexpensive lift pump diaphram that supplys the vst could likely be the culprit. i would check/replace that before you tear into the vst. as soon as you open it up you are gonna need a $100 + seal to put it back together if it needs nothing.
Yeah $100 for a seal, an even better reason to ditch it!!!

Does the electric pump in the VST come on when you turn the key on? I have a motor here that had to have the ECU bypassed to make the fuel pump run because the driver died.
The electric pump runs/sounds strong.
 

resqu-u

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I've thought about ditching the VST also. You know all the things to check so let us know what you find. Hopefully one of the pro stock guys can help with the fuel rail change.
 

xb03

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Its all your fault Shane, because you told me to take it easy untill the rally :rolleyes:
 

LEVI LEDET

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I like the 260 set up that's what we run on our pro stock motors if I was you I would get rid of all the vts tank and stuff and put a pump in the boat and if U want to see a real difference put a A6 or a A63 ecu and it will run a lot better
 

patches

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Levi should do a tutorial on the procedure to do it:)

If I had a 200 EFI I would Prostock it and put an ACU on it before I even ran it
 

bassracr

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I would be interested in what some of the knowledgeable members opinions would be on these scenarios . Lets say the laser type fuel injection is working properly . How much money would it cost to switch over to the 260 setup and with that change ONLY ,how much performance would be gained ? I guess it all boils down to most of us want the best bang for the buck. So if you added an acu like Levi said .. How much would you gain and how much would the total cost be ? Now.. If you were not bound to meet the guidelines of a sanctioning body for pro stock or any other racing class , you were just a hotboater looking to get the most horsepower per dollar, would you spend your money differently on maybe tight heads and an svs or some different combination ? I really would like to know what some of you guys think about where your money would be best spent if you wasn't worried about complying with a specific set of rules.
Maybe the answer is the same as if you were setting up a motor for pro stock . I don't know, so I would like to know what you guys think.
 

whipper

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No gains just less to go wrong. were you can gain though would be the ability to adjust for more fuel to feed tighter heads. Other mods my bennifit also? i know heads like being fed more fuel. i run without the filter on the side of the motor and run a paper filter instead. Also did away with the tinny ones that fit across to the vst. i do find a smother idle.

That diapram spring kit is only 20 bucks and fail often. That feeds the vst. 9/10 times thats the culprit as mentioned. Should be part of the yearly maintinence when ya do the impellor. Takes 10 min to put the new diaphram and spring in. the spring pulses and gets week or you develop a pin hole in the diaphram. Usually can idle because as it goes it can still feed enough fuel to the vst. As demand increases it cant fill the vst fast enough and will stave you for fuel. Some times as its getting week it work off and on. but soon will fail to the point were even getting on plane is to much. The first run sometimes is good because it had time to fill abit while idleing. Sustained running on the first run will eventually run the vst to low for sufficiant fuel though.:beer:
 

patches

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There is an advantage to the SVS in my opinion, doable for a lake motor. Not legal in DSRA. Compression is dictated by your fuel but PS motors usually run around 150 lbs.
As far as cost you'd need a Bosch 984 pump or equivalent, black 56 lb regulator, and an ecu, need to be a recurved A6, A63, or Brucato ecu. Also, 16 amp drag electrics.
As far as an advantage I can't say and I'd love to see a back to back comparison on a lake boat like an XB2002 or SS2000. I'll say this, on a 1400 lb XR2001(prolly 200 lbs lighter than most XB2002's) they will run high 100 mph and turn a 1.87 and a 24 Yamaha to 9000 in the 1/4 on a completely stock rotating assembly. Some will turn more than that
 

xb03

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How much fuel psi needed untill I can get an ecu? How long does a bosch pump usually last?
 
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njj502

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You don't need a new oring just to open the vst unless it tears. Use some light grease to get it to stick in the groove when you reassemble. For the cost to go to a 260 set up I'd fix what's wrong first. I did it on a 3l and it was a waste of $$
 

XXXR2001

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$700 for used Brucato ACU
$400 for used 260/Drag flywheel
$170 for new Stater
$60 for new Trigger
$30 for new Rectifier
$200 for fuel pump
$125 for adjustable fuel pressure regulator
$100 for hose, fittings, & fp gauge

Total = $1785

This setup is more tuneable but unless you have a lot of time to spend playing with it, it won't run much better than your stock setup. Also, the 16amp charging system isn't very good so you give up something there.

You could just get rid of the VST, mechanical pump & oil injection and leave the rest as is. Not too complicated, you'll just need to get a good electric fuel pump & fuel regulator and you'll need to run a return line to your tank. But even doing this will probably end up costing you around $300-$500 if you buy new stuff.
 

xb03

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You could just get rid of the VST, mechanical pump & oil injection and leave the rest as is. Not too complicated, you'll just need to get a good electric fuel pump & fuel regulator and you'll need to run a return line to your tank. But even doing this will probably end up costing you around $300-$500 if you buy new stuff.
This was the plan, it seems this way would be more reliable. Yes, no maybe?? And if I was to break down on the water again and had a spare pump, I could be running again in minutes. With the vst stuff, not so much.
 

bassracr

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This was the plan, it seems this way would be more reliable. Yes, no maybe?? And if I was to break down on the water again and had a spare pump, I could be running again in minutes. With the vst stuff, not so much.
i am under the impression the vst is basically a reliable set up .as whipper said the rubber diaphram/lift pump gets hard and does not feed the tank properly.which if replaced regularly is easy and inexpensive. i dont really see how a pump mounted inside the boat would be any more reliable than one set up like the promax. im sure people have different opinions on this. i think some of our members have huge amount of hours on this set-up and can chime in on their experience with the stock setup
 

bassracr

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$700 for used Brucato ACU
$400 for used 260/Drag flywheel
$170 for new Stater
$60 for new Trigger
$30 for new Rectifier
$200 for fuel pump
$125 for adjustable fuel pressure regulator
$100 for hose, fittings, & fp gauge

Total = $1785

This setup is more tuneable but unless you have a lot of time to spend playing with it, it won't run much better than your stock setup. Also, the 16amp charging system isn't very good so you give up something there.

You could just get rid of the VST, mechanical pump & oil injection and leave the rest as is. Not too complicated, you'll just need to get a good electric fuel pump & fuel regulator and you'll need to run a return line to your tank. But even doing this will probably end up costing you around $300-$500 if you buy new stuff.
those all look like pretty realistic figures based on what i have seen, and pretty much confirms what i was thinking.I went through something simular about 15 yrs. ago where i spent a whole lot of money (to me) basically chasing my tail to see little gains for a lot of money. thanks xxr 2001 for spelling out what it takes and what it costs to do that type of conversion. i have a 225 promax i will eventually re-do and wondered myself about this fuel system change over / verses spending lets say the same $1800 just on the powerhead in other areas to get the most reliable performance per dollar. not trying to jack this thread,hopefully the gentleman that started it is getting some helpful information that will help with his decision on whether to change out the fuel system.
 

xb03

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Yall do a good job of talking me out of this every year :LMAO: Is the vst filter cleanable or does it have to be replaced??
Thanks, Jared
 

bassracr

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Yall do a good job of talking me out of this every year :LMAO: Is the vst filter cleanable or does it have to be replaced??
Thanks, Jared
jared,if i remember right it is basically just a screen at the bottom of the tank. it was years ago when i was messing with it. i have had two apart and both times the screen was clean and my problem was found elsewhere as i suspect yours will be too. maybe i had a different situation than the other poster about that o-ring because of ethanol, but both times i had one apart i had to buy that o-ring . i was careful to remove it and when i went to re-assemble it had swelled and seemed to be a 1/4 inch longer than it was when it came out . being the cheapskate i am i tried putting it the freezer,and every other trick known to my small brain to no avail. it was a $100 + inspection for me. mine was doing as you described and the lift pump was the culprit,so my ocd kicked in and i went through everything else along with it to make sure it was all proper...which it was..as usual .
 
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