93 2.5 260, is this a good one

96xb2003

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i own a 93 2.5 260, it has about 100 hrs on it and i dont wanna take any chances with this motor. how many hrs should i expect to get before its time to freshen her up. i run klotz oil at 32 to 1. most of these hrs are fishin hrs
with that said i usually air her out atleast once each time im in her. is there a westcoast engine repair facility that has experience and is trustworthy, and w
what should i be looking to have done. and will the wallet be beggin 4 mercy?

i also see alot of people talking about different computers and what not , are there programing issues i should be aware of?
injector service, is it necessary or is good fuel and a good fuel treatment all thats necessary?
any input would be appreciated!!
 

mtolley

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the best way to determine engine health would be to perform a compression test and a leakdown test. i dont like to see more than 5% leakage in my nickasil motors,but some folks will run them long as its under 10%. i feel that injector service is a good idea. dont need a dirty injector blowing up high dollar powerhead. i use Brucato. good fuel and seafoam will help keep your injectors clean. most folks upgrade the ecu to a newer digital box. west coast shops, not sure about. my side of the rock, id give tommy dunn a call
 

Rocket

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If I'm not mistaken,,, if you change your box to a Digital......... you will also have to change your pressure regulator and I think remove your,,,,, oh heck whats that thing called?:rolling eyes TPI?



And IMHO I'd run Mercury High Performance oil if you ain't racing it...... Too much Paraffin in the Klotz.
 

ImbadBob

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I would have my injectors serviced or replaced. Service is more billfold freindly. Going digital the tpi comes off and the airhorn or the fitting to the map sensor changed. The presure regulator needs to match the ecu's required presure. If you decide not to rebuild it I will swap you a fine 2 bladed Case XX.
 

ziemer

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If I'm not mistaken,,, if you change your box to a Digital......... you will also have to change your pressure regulator and I think remove your,,,,, oh heck whats that thing called?:rolling eyes TPI?

And IMHO I'd run Mercury High Performance oil if you ain't racing it...... Too much Paraffin in the Klotz.
Regulator would only change if you go to a drag style box (A-63, A-6, etc) A good digital would be an A-48 (old style) or A-5 (new style) and you can still run the gold fuel regulator.

TPI would come off, and there's a dead plug, that fits in the wire harness. You also need to change the nipple for the ECU on the front side of the horn.

On the oil, I agree...I've had some issues with the Klotz and this BS Ethanol. :confused Also, if you're just lake riding there's really no reason to run more than 40:1 on the mix. :cool

Be prepared to do a rebuild soon, and figure on replacing all 6 pistons too since they are going to be the old side pin style. New bearings throughout and at minimun a light hone. Labor will be in the $1000-$1200 range for re-build and parts can be upwards of $2000-$3000 (will depend on where you buy and what pistons you use)
 

whipper

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Talk to Gary Finch hes in your neck of the woods or Jay Leach hes in Cal also. They would both now were to get work done in your area. I would trust what shop they would recommend there experienced and knowledgeable in the motor and Allison dept.
 

JaySmithRacing

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Thats a good motor BUT for long life you need top pinned pistons, I use nothing but Wizard with 100% success .. Also that motor has 5250 rods and will need the top of the rod to be reduced to .701" ( minus .050" per side EXACTLY ! ) to accept any on the new style top pinned pistons. If you go to any digital box you will need to change the air barb that feeds the ECU with signal to a Mercury part number 22-822715 and I have great luck with the NGK plugs # BR8HS gapped at .035". If you stick with an A 48 chip in a Merc digital box your Gold 39 PSI regulator and stock fuel pump will work great... You will also need to plug your TPI harness open 3 pin plug with Mercury part number that I have but can't put my finger on. IF you go with a MERCURY box you WILL need that plug , IF you go with a Brucato ACU you can leave it open as his boxes don't use that circuit.

Hope that helps,
Jay
 

Volatile

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We prefer the BR8HIX plugs. You will want to replace the plugs to either inductor (Champion QL77JC4) or resistor type as mentioned with a dig box. Mercury never changed from solid conductor to RF reducing wires when they went to digital. We run the Magnecor wires to reduce RF, which can corrupt the digital ecu's. Funny how Merc figured this out for the Opti motors but not the race motors.
The fuel pump SHOULD BE a Bosch 957 with that motor originally. The earlier 260's came with a smaller Bosch with a plastic outlet and that pump should be discarded. Either 957, or the larger 984 is good. Injector cleaning is a must. Ditch the Klotz, you'll find the exhaust sooty as mentioned. There are many better oils out there.
As for the rods, you might be better off selling the 5250 and buying some 814141 if you go to new pistons. However, your pistons may be just fine. The Mahle had less issue with pins popping than the Wiseco (1995 and newer) as they expand less. You can send the pistons to John Marles for top pinning with a hardened pin for around $50 each. Do not let him EDM the pin all the way into the pistons, only til they are flush or you'll have leakage around the hole where the pin was on the Mahle.
Be sure you have the late 1993 block with the 4 bolt mains on the front. If its a 2 bolt, you can run it as is or send it to Jim Ruck to have the extra bolt areas added to the block and front. Also some of the early blocks were not helicoil'd which makes the threads stronger.
If you disassemble the motor all the way down, be sure to lightly chamfer the sealing rings to reduce wear in the block.
Rings are not cheap. Get good ones.
 

JaySmithRacing

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I Might add :5250 rods are fine when modified to accept the newer style .715" pistons but must be precision ground to remove EXACTLY .050" off each side of the small end then the "oil slots" must be put back in I do a set at least 2 times a month but they are heavier but I do also lighten them and IMO a must for NOS motors.

The older Mahles were better about the pins coming OUT BUT they sunk in and caused the same issues.. I would also have second thoughts about using a piston that was no newer than 15 years old in my new to me engine at a time of rebuild , thats asking for trouble .Also the Malhes were prone to crack and have skirt failures even when new 15-20 years ago.Marles has been aware of the EDM ed pins on Mahles for years and has got that issue fixed..

I run nothing but Wizard pistons PERIOD, when clearances are correct and bores are prepped correctly ALL my customers have found them to be bullet proof. From full blown NOS burning Unlimited Outboard World Champion to recreational they have worked flawless..

I hone all my sealing rings on a honing stone to make sure they are flat and not dragging the crank. And also chamfer the ends.. Less drag = less friction = more HP

Call and I'll give you some more rebuild tips and suggestions 1 281 576 5088 cst 9-5 M-F

Jay
 

Volatile

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Yes the Wizard pistons are excellent, we've sold a large number of sets as well. Deans pistons are the best being made currently and thats correct. You have a stock 260 with only 100hours and sounds like you may just want an easy freshen up job without spending a ton of $$.
Deans pistons although very nice parts, still use the soft pin bent and they wear thru after extended use or high rpm use from the ring being much harder. Having a hardened pin like John does is just another option. We recommend John's pinning on all pistons, new or used. Just giving you some options. Also the Mahle was a very good piston and many racers prefer them if they can find a nice set. The pins DO sink as Jay mentioned and they also come out, thats why I suggested John Marles to have yours repinned. As for the little tips of the skirts that break, most builders in the know, like Mumford, will just grind them down to about 1/2 the height and they're fine. Gohr takes them off completely. Unfortunately even the Mahle that were production run a few years back had those little steps instead of a nice chamfer.
You could suggest Deans double seal ring set as well, its very nice.
34cc heads would be another nice option. Lots of things to do to improve the motor.
Hopefully the prices won't scare you into just reringing the motor only, as there are a number of minor mods that will add longevity and possibly prevent damage in the future.
 

racerx

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Steve there was a guy here on the allison site that had a brand new 2007 factory 280 long block,which came with factory top pinned pistons,he was told to put in new pins from John in which he did, only to have it come out in a half an hour,,that is very depressing,he ended up puting all new factory pistons back in his motor,something he should of left alone in the 1st place.....IMO
 

JaySmithRacing

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Steve,
The issue you sighted earlier about the soft pin in the Wizard piston was/is news to Dean as well as myself. Can you give me some more details about this failure like the owner of these failed piston's name as well as when it happened...

Thats indeed odd as the pin used in the Wizard is the exact same pin thats used in the Weisco/Mercury High Performance top pinned pistons ..

Thanks,
Jay
 

Volatile

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Jeff, Missed ur call. Will holler tomorrow. Unless the 280 detonated, I'd have a hard time believing Johns pin came out, its pressed and welded in.
Jay, you sell both Deans pistons & John's top pinning service I believe. Repinning is cheaper and acceptable if the pistons are in good condition. Possibly he doesn't need new pistons/ rod work or want to spend that much.
Likely, Wiseco does not give Dean much of an option & the bent pins do work fine, but I have had motors in with a lot of hours and no issues at all and others in for repair with them worn thru/spun on the Merc 280 style. This was 2 years back, so maybe they've improved? Maybe it was the oil or something else? I'm guessing just the time and rpm involved. Mercury does the pins the same way obviously , since they get them from Wiseco as well . The idea / prototype for the soft bent pin came from a guy in Minnesota . Maybe you know more about its origin than I do? Ruck has one of his original pistons last I knew. Just giving another option to the gentleman and not in any way cutting anyones product.
I don't want to argue , just stating my experience that we personally prefer John's hard top pinning & believe its worth the extra per piston, used or new. Its obvious that a soft pin with a very hard ring wearing up/down on it WILL wear it thru sooner or later. Check out some of the info on Johns site . http://www.us1.cc. And in the higher rpm / long hour motors we've seen it do this just as John has. Maybe the gentleman will never see more than 7500rpm & the std pin will outlast the motor. Its also possible his Mahles will never drop a pin either and he can just rering & reinstall them. I doubt that with the Mahle though. I've never had a failure w/ the hard pins wearing thru nor popping out though. Have you had any issues with John's pins? You do a lot more of these than we do.
BOTH options , Johns or Merc's are much better than the stock side pinned versions IMO. A lot depends on rpm and heat on the side pin versions living.
Its clear that Dean makes great pistons and for the price, they are really a bargain. I also believe that John has a slightly better idea on the pins. I've never seen one of his pins come loose. I've seen totally blown up motors w/ Johns pins still perfectly intact. I would venture to say that Johns pins destroying a motor are less likely than the std. Merc / Wizard wearing thru & those BOTH are FAR less likely to destroy a motor than a side pin design.
Possibly induction hardening just the ring land area where they don't need to bend would make the standard pins more durable?
Trying to give a guy with only a 100hr motor options to rebuild his motor like everyone else. The guy will want a fair amount of options & price range. He can spend $300+ on re pinning his likely decent Mahles/ cut down the tabs a bit, or he can spend $1200+ on a set of new pistons, get new rods, etc.
A good recommendation would also be to have the bores checked for roundness and diamond honed by Ruck, especially if he installs new pistons.
 
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JaySmithRacing

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I do indeed use Marles for top pinning cast pistons only . I replace used pistons on my 99% of ALL rebuilds that are not top pinned. Might be the reason my rebuild customers enjoy a LONG service life afterwards.

As far as the "soft pin" subject. I know of NO outboard race venue as of 2010 where Mercury motors are used thats NOT dominated by Wizard pistons and products , from Champ, Mod U , Unlimited Outboard, Modified Production, Rope Racing, Outboard Ski Racing, to sand bar and recreational use all over the world those in the know use Wizard products .. Wanna find out who uses Wizard Products ask the WINNERS ...

Jay
 
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