SS-2000/Mercury 200xs setup

aeneas

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As soon as I get the old parts off the boat I will start documenting. :)
I started with the cable steering yesterday morning.
 

ROBERT CROSS

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Love the up grades!!!!

You may find this helpful when it's time to bleed the steering....worked great for me when I flushed the old fluid.

..
Click on "Vimeo" for full screen.
.......you may be surprised how high she rides.
I'm a 1/4" above, 2 on board and loaded for float'n & eat'n.
Not anywhere near as "up on the pad" as y'all.
Got a 24p Q4 OT Round Ear last year.....LOVE the holeshot, pretty good cruiser also.
DSC00081.JPG
 
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aeneas

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Robert, excellent tip on bleeding the steering!
What steering do you have?

Cool clip! I couldn't see - are you running a skid-planer?
Also you have a very nice setup with the trim indicator.
 

ROBERT CROSS

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Robert, excellent tip on bleeding the steering!
What steering do you have?

Cool clip! I couldn't see - are you running a skid-planer?
Also you have a very nice setup with the trim indicator.
I could have mounted the SS indicator on the dash but it just didn't look right, too cluttered and it seemed out of place.
It's a dynamite up-grade, no more bumping the stops and I've learned what numbers match what RPM.

No skid-plainer....my blue balls help with the hole-shot.
DSC00122.jpg DSC00124.JPG DSC00125.JPG






Stock SeaStar HC5345 It has worked very well...just be sure there is no air in the system.


DSC08946.jpg
 

ROBERT CROSS

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I had an ET on one day and it blew out , spun me around at 75 . Took it off and never looked back ! I loved it on my STV but this GS is a different animal and requires driving it . Mercury makes a great prop , don't get me wrong I like them , just not on my heavy GS that needs more bow lift .
A 30p ET came with our GS, the PO got 94 with it....I just got scared $hitless. :eek:
Sold it on S&F, called Todd and added a 26P OT Q4 to the stable.;)
 

DOUBLE J

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Funny how everybody has different opinions on props. I have a GS w/280SS and my favorite of the bunch is a 28 ET. I've run over 105 with 2 numerous times and never no issues. I have a 28 Hoss Triton, Ron Hill 28 , Mazco 29 RE, 26 Jaco Et, 24 Yamaha Drag, 22 Knob Cut Hydromotive and a 15X34 Mercury Labbed Cleaver. My favorite hands down is the ET. On my SS I ran a 30Et which was my favorite for top end and the 26 Jaco for acceleration.
 

aeneas

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I bought a ET Lightning 28p lab, perhaps the "lab" means more cup etc..? It is a hard accelerating propeller that just won't lose grip (like the others I have) and it is like that up to all speeds. Perhaps that propeller is better with the engine higher - that I will have to test. This raises the question: do you run your propellers at different heights? Which props do you run extra high?
 

DOUBLE J

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Well I've bought a couple of ET's new thru Jaco's and each time Mercury prop guy would call me to discuss prop prior to starting on order. Like I said everybody has their favorites.
 

aeneas

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The cable steering is finally out of the boat.

The jack plate has some transparent silicone between it and the boat - any ideas on how to get the jack plate off the boat?
 
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ROBERT CROSS

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The cable steering is finally out of the boat.

The jack plate has some transparent silicon between it and the boat - any ideas on how to get the jack plate off the boat?

50-100lb mono line wrapped around two wooden dowels to 'cut' the sillycone without hurt'n the gel...loosen & remove one bolt at a time.;)
 
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aeneas

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I tried 0.50mm monofilament fishing line... And it did not work, it broke off. Back to the tackle shop for some 0.80mm - success! (Silicone is c r a p!)


Anyhow, I got the old jack plate off by taking it apart and and using the fishing line to cut the silicone.


I thought I would put the new one on like the old came off except with less silicone. Unfortunately it did not fit. I had to cut the top off to fit below the metal rail on the transom. As I drive desks at work and am not used to handling power tools the result is not perfect but good enough for me. :p


The jackplate in place. New nuts on the transom and I am going to order new bolts for the engine. Everything new feels better.
The white on the engine is some grease that I spray on at every postrun rinse. I will clean it off when it is time to polish...


On the way back to the garage.

I hope I haven't messed things up. I measured from he floor to the anti cavitation plate when the engine was horisontal so I hope I can find my settings again.

Next time I will put this on:


Seastar Tournament Series HC6845s hydraulic steering cylinder.


Seastar HH5770-3 helm.

I also got the kevlar hoses, new steering wheel and Protrim. I didn't know that I would get the Protrim in the kit so I bought one on eBay so I have an extra now - one single and one double. I am not sure which one to use..? Recommendations anyone?

When the steering is in place I will service the engine for the summer followed by a big wash and polish. That's my to do list.
 
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flying07

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Double is nice. . . i switch off left and right hand all the time on mine . . . but maybe i'm just weird. haha
 

aeneas

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Maybe you are, maybe I am too... :rolleyes: :p I got used to trim with my thumb in this boat but on my previous boat I hade double Protrim.
 

aeneas

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When I removed the steering plate to have a new one made last last year I didn't put the ARP-screw back, I also forgo to put some lube in the hole. When I put the steering cylinder on the engine I couldn't put the ARP-screw back in due to a bit of rust. I started looking for a thread chaser but they are all too long to fit in that small space.


I took the old ARP-screw and a Dremel tool to make a home made thread chaser. Worked very well.


The Seastar Tournament Series HC6845S steering cylinder in place. The new ARP-screw is stamped "Seastar ARP" and does not have a washer on it.


Now I will have to figure out how to attach the hoses. Should they cross at the cylinder or at the helm?

I have also made a device to measure propshaft height. It is a small aluminium profile with plastic distances on to clear the lip.

Skärmavbild 2016-06-15 kl. 05.09.46.png

The blue is the profile (about 6'). The red are the plastic distances. The two distances on the left will make sure that the profile is even with the pad while clearing the lip. The distance to the right builds up the the same level as the pad. With the propshaft level to the pad it should be possible to measure the propshaft in relation to the pad.
 
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aeneas

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I have used some evenings to get the boat on the water.


The steering is in. The hoses are thru the channels in the boat secured with the foam tubes. Yesterday I bled the steering for the second time. I put in a double ProTrim instead of the single that is included in the kit from Allison Boats.
I have also serviced the engine. Had to fabricate a tool to get the bottom left sparkplug out, incredibly tight!


I have removed the lower to change the gaskets and the impeller in the water pump. I washed the waterpump casing with washing-up liquid so it now looks new, I also removed the old silicone and fastened the water tube with some new. The washers and nuts that hold the lower unit will be replaced as are the gaskets for the screw where you drain/fill the gear case.


Here is what the new steering looks like. The pic is lying a bit, I have an inch and a bit between the hose and the cylinder. I use the 45 degree fittings to the cylinder.


The new steering wheel and the ProTrim. Not sure about the steering wheel... Is it possible to use the original steering wheel with an adapter? If so, where do I get an adapter?

Everytime I have been out I have washed the boat and rinsed the engine - it is in pretty good condition. :) The trailer on the other hand is beginning to show that it is being used in saltwater. I will probably have a new one custom made next year.

I have bought a new GPS - Garmin 721. Since I don't want to drill in the boat I will try to attach it with a vacuum mount.
 
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