Running solo boat Empty. . No trolling motor

xb03fs

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You can't turn at full out rid Ng on the lip trim. But I like to keep the nose up.

It is good to know where you motor is for sure.

1/4 below handles well, can accelerate hard and trim the boat aggressively without worry during acceleration

1/4 above and higher in an xb21 will accelerate slower, require more careful trim in the midrange but add several mph up top.
 

NOTGSXR

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Steve,

I've done the carnival ride turn at about 50.. I bumped the trim down just a touch and started to make a turn.. was amazed how well it turned and kept going with it and basically did a U-Turn and kept going.... If not for the bucket seats.. I probably would've had some difficulties. I was so amazed... Thing just hooks up so well..
 

Bobalouie

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For me, turns anywhere in the 75-85 mph range were just harder jerks one way or the other on the wheel to one side or the other (depending on turn direction) then back to center to stay balanced. So, just a bunch of little turns in quick succession to get reoriented. Never tried to make a river bend turn at that speed, for those it was slow down to 60-70 mph and turn normal. Faster than 85 I never attempted, straight line only.

I never bumped the trim down to do any turns. I got on the trim with the first push of the gas and got it to the sweet spot as quickly as possible and left it there until slowing down.
 

scj

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Nathan, I totally disagree about slower acceleration running over the pad. I can hole shot faster over the pad every time vs having the engine under pad.
When I took the ProSport out, I had set the pad/prop even and had so much new stuff to mess with I forgot about the engine height until later in the day. Once I jacked it up a little, it was quite noticeable how much quicker it took off and how much faster I could get up to speed.

Every boat is different but my set up likes to run over the pad.
 

xb03fs

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Steve,


If I try to accelerate fast I have to jump on the
Trim fast and keep the nose up.

With this aggressive trim above the pad, the rear end breaks loose and kicks right out from under me. Luckily I am able to catch and it hasn't went around. But it blows out somewhere between 45-65 with a lot of trim above the pad.

1/4" below I can lay on the trim and kite it
To wot with ease

I run it above the pad to topend numbers but other wise I keep it 1/4 under
To even
 

motobuffy

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There are so many posts discussing prop shaft height when setup questions are asked, but very little is said about the relationship of prop shaft height and prop diameter in combination. Not being as knowledgeable as most of you on the forum, I would love to hear opinions. Just to get things started, simple logic tells me the larger the prop diameter, the higher the shaft can go.
 

scj

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I never take my engine above neutral trim until I'm over 70 mph. Never had any blowout issues running that way even with my torquey SHO engine. I'm not sure why you would fly the nose high below 70 mph unless you have a bunch of weight in the front of your boat.

I usually run a ProMax prop that is 14 3/4" with no issues but here lately I prefer a Bravo 1 which I believe is 15 " diameter. Still no issues but the Bravo has a much better hole-shot but at the same time it has more slip at speed than the Promax.
 

xb03fs

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I never take my engine above neutral trim until I'm over 70 mph. Never had any blowout issues running that way even with my torquey SHO engine. I'm not sure why you would fly the nose high below 70 mph unless you have a bunch of weight in the front of your boat.

I usually run a ProMax prop that is 14 3/4" with no issues but here lately I prefer a Bravo 1 which I believe is 15 " diameter. Still no issues but the Bravo has a much better hole-shot but at the same time it has more slip at speed than the Promax.
The sooner I get the nose up the faster it accelerates. Only tricky part is when you carry enough trim through slow speed when it starts packing air around 60, you have to tap the trim down once or twice, to stay in control, then as the lip starts taking over and pushing the nose down in the 70's resume trimming up.. very quick short process over just a few seconds...

Just my preference....hate feeling the hull drag even at lower speeds
 

NOTGSXR

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The sooner I get the nose up the faster it accelerates. Only tricky part is when you carry enough trim through slow speed when it starts packing air around 60, you have to tap the trim down once or twice, to stay in control, then as the lip starts taking over and pushing the nose down in the 70's resume trimming up.. very quick short process over just a few seconds...

Just my preference....hate feeling the hull drag even at lower speeds
I hate that hull drag feeling as well.. and still am amazed at how the release feels once I get my trim to the mid 6's and it let's go... it's pretty quick too.
 

xb03fs

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I hate that hull drag feeling as well.. and still am amazed at how the release feels once I get my trim to the mid 6's and it let's go... it's pretty quick too.
No idea where I trim too. Never got the smartcraft trim guage to read and the 200 before it didn't have a guage.
 

RiverRocket

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I have a ProSport with 300xs and 1.62 gear case. I ran a lot with the trolling motor off when I had the 225Xs on the boat. I changed nothing with weight distribution. i will say that my tackle and fishing gear was always in the boat with the 225 (50lbs). On the top end, I would pick up 1mph if all I did was pull the trolling motor. Interesting to note, it was equally as effective if I pulled the trolling motor and set it in the back of the boat. I have a Minnkota Terrova 80lb 45".

I have done some radar run events with the 300xs. The boat was cleaned out of all my gear for those. As long as the trolling batteries were still in the boat I didn't have to add weight to the boat. Given early testing with moving the trolling batteries to the center and having extremely bad handling, I have never pulled the batteries to run or hit top end. I almost feel if I pull them I'm going to have to add a ton of weight so why bother. In one of my tunnels, I could pick up 3mph if I pulled the trolling batteries, so I feel I'm leaving something on the table by running with them, just not gutsy enough to run without them.

I have a level in my boat that I put in above the steering wheel. I run a touch heavier on the left side but not much. When I first started out I ran it much heavier on the left. My biggest issue was coming from a tunnels and the lack of respect for general weight distribution. In addition, not being particular about knowing where my neutral trim was and how engine height effects drivability. From what I have seen, most run XB-21's run near neutral trim. I get my best numbers .2 to .4 over neutral. (I don't think I have ever seen a rooster tail on my boat). After I'm on plane I set my trim to neutral (4.7) and don't touch it again unless I'm going above 90.

My biggest handling killer was engine height. Running under the pad makes my boat handle so much worse. I had to be all over the wheel to keep it on the pad at 65. With the motor .25" above I have no issues.
 

scj

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Good write up RiverRocket. I feel the same about engine height and trim.
What prop are you running?
 

RiverRocket

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I like the Bravo. I have tried a lot of different props and the bravo feels the best for my driving style and comfort level. I like how it feels hooked up and doesn't get flighty over 90. The hydro motive and pro max props run well. I just don't like how they feel over 80. I can handle 3mph slower to not have the flighty feeling.

I have a 25 for summer heat and tubing. A 27 I run most of the year and a 30 for special occasions. I was thinking of getting a 32 to 34, but I'm happy with the speed. These things go wicked fast with a full tank of gas and loaded to tournament fish. They are not a drag boat, but loaded up they are impressive and have exceeded my expectations.

All have been B&B with a little cup added. A must I feel for Bravo's. Helps reduce the left side lean.
 
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