Flywheel Weight

2003225X

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Matt yours is a shorty from the factory so you have a one piece adapter just like the 260/280 correct?

Send that flywheel tool down here for me would ya??:wink
Yes, it is on a 1 piece adapter just like a 280. As far as cooling.... Lee Sanderson set the motor up to cool the way it does. He said they have done many like that and have never had an issue. When I put it in the water I just make sure it is fully warmed up before taking off. That is what he told me to do and I would not have an issue with it.
 

Dave Hensley

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I have sleeved a ton of cast iron sleeved motors that met an early death because they had the cooling systems modified to imitate a nik motor. The cast iron motors like 140-145 degrees. Its easy to get there and I agree with Roy. Put the thermostats in it and I use a restictor orifice in the hose off the poppet block off. You need to run a good temp gauge and just adjust the water getting out of the motor. Cold scuffing is a function of both static and dynamic piston to wall clearance. The cast pistons also help as the cam on the skirt design is more forgiving than the performance pistons. This isn't new information for most of you but I can say it has proven to be very true in my experiences.
 

2003225X

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I have sleeved a ton of cast iron sleeved motors that met an early death because they had the cooling systems modified to imitate a nik motor. The cast iron motors like 140-145 degrees. Its easy to get there and I agree with Roy. Put the thermostats in it and I use a restictor orifice in the hose off the poppet block off. You need to run a good temp gauge and just adjust the water getting out of the motor. Cold scuffing is a function of both static and dynamic piston to wall clearance. The cast pistons also help as the cam on the skirt design is more forgiving than the performance pistons. This isn't new information for most of you but I can say it has proven to be very true in my experiences.
I assume you are talking HEAD temp at those levels?? I am talking WATER temp.... I do not have a gauge that reads head temp in the boat.
 

2003225X

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My stock 225x I had never ran at 145 degrees WATER temp. If it is running 100 degree WATER temp than the heads are in the range for temperature.
 

Dave Hensley

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Head temp. You are looking for the expansion rate of aluminum vs. Cast iron. You can correlate to water temp but the sending units for the head temp are more available...
 

2003225X

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I've confirmed the cooling setup on the motor is what it should be to run perfectly fine.

The 225X motors do NOT run the same temps as other steel bore motors. I have seen other posts about this topic on this board and other boards about the temps the X motors run at vs a "regular" 225 promax. Apparently they are different animals and are setup differently...

Mine has 2 120 t-stats and bypassing the poppet valve on a 15" offhore mid. I will keep everyone updated on how the lighter flywheel and higher limiter works out on my setup!

Thanks for all the help!
 

suicidealli

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The X is kind of a different motor.. But steel Sleeve motors needs heat, but I guess the X is a different animal.... It would bother me to run one a 100* water temps in cold water....

Like I said, mother merc knew more than we do.. Even tho they have made their mistakes... I run the factory cooling system set up. Some little mods here and there, but the same style......

Roy
 
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GotMyAlly

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Ya'll know I fish year round. I ran my X motor through 6 winters. I always made sure I let it warm up good before I took off, but never had a single problem with it. THe first couple of seasons, I was leary about the low temps when the water was under 40 degrees. Whatever they worked into the design of that motor, it seemed to work with the lower operating temps.
 

suicidealli

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The issue I have is: you have 2 different materials, that heats up at a different rate. aluminum/alloy, and steel. Also motors have to be designed to run in extreme temps. when metal/aluminum heat up they swell. If there is enough clearance for swelling to occur, then this means when the engine is cold the clearances are going to be at that greatest. This is what can cause scuffing, because the pistons are "sloppy" in the bore...
A motor can last a long time with scuffing going on, but it will shorten the life of the motor. I don't know how mercury can change the laws of physics, or at least to allow for both extreme conditions, without some I'll effects. I sure would like to know how it works if it exists. The thermostats was the solution of the older motors, and a poppet, but if cold water running conditions are 100* the only way to achieve both is design the motor to be ran at cooler temps all the time. That way you could have tighter clearances, but if that motor gets To hot you will stick a piston.........Just my thoughts.


Roy
 

suicidealli

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Oh, mercury steel sleeve fishing motors were 3.500 from the factory. These issues I talked about above, has changed for most engine builders. They rule of thumb is 3.501 to give them more clearance for swelling. This is why you see a lot of promax motors still stock bore after a rebuild. Gives you a little more room for swelling...

Roy
 

aaronmt

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I believe he took 4lb off mine as well.On my 250xs he took 3 off.Do your self a favor and have it set at 7500 or higher.I ran mine a lot well over 7k for extended times.These motors will turn 8k from what I've heard.I wish they had the torque I need for our Velocity id never of sold it.I always wanted to send it to jsre clean up the ports a bit.He now cuts the heads on them as well.I really wish id never sold it
 

aaronmt

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How fast is it safe to spin one with the stock 40 amp stator and altenator. I thought I was told, over 7K the heavy flywheel and stator become liabilities. Cast pistons, even Vertex are not meant to stay pinned over 7k for miles on end, short burst are ok but not for long distances.

I guess what is safe to keep it pinned at. My smaller diameter 24 P ski prop hit 78 buried with a buried lower at 7500 rpms real quick. The 26 P take it seems twice as long to get to the limiter but is mid to upper 80s with the same load
These are completly different motors then your motor.Only thing that interchanges is the mercury decal.I know Silverbullets was completly different so Id assume your 200 is as well.
 

2003225X

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My dad's 225x had over 320 hours on it. It was run in very hot and very cold weather. The current owner had pulled the heads for another reason and took pictures and that motor looked brand new inside. That motor ran at the exact same operating temperature mine does when it is up and running.

Some guys have said about constant head temps of 160 to 180 on promax motors. I would be very concerned if mine was running that warm.
 
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