another problem!

[Speedman]

o.k. so I replaced my power pack and realized my voltage reg, was bouncing around and was holding at 16 volts. I talked to my mech who said I should be safe but to watch the battery as it might fry it. He also said at WOT it could effect other parts in the motor. Well he is in Canada and I needed to go fishing so off I went. I never took the boat above 50 as it was 25 degrees out!. on the way back in, the motor seemed to just cut out, like someone pulled the kill switch, but when I backed off the throttle she came back alive? this happened twice in a 10 mile run back to the ramp, glad I made it! all the while the voltmeter was bouncing from 13 to pinned at 16. what do you experts think? Thanks as usual for keeping me running!

 

[2fast4mom]

How old is the battery and in what condition? What you describe can be caused by a high impedance battery (SHOT) that cannot accept a charge.

Outboard charging electronics can be primitive...if the battery is questionable, and/or its connections oxidized, current from the alternator or stator cannot flow into the battery, resulting in an over-volt and a protective shutdown.

I'd check the battery first!

Lou

 

[GFinch]

Power packs are expensive, voltage spikes will kill electrical components. I'm a auto grease monkey, not an outboard tech.
Most problems lie in the connections. Start at the battery, disconnecting cleaning and reconnecting and tightening ALL connections. Throw away the wing nuts and put stainless steel nylock nuts in their place. From the battery to the engine and back to the battery.
Once everything in the circuit is clean and tight, then check the voltage with a good Digital Volt Ohm Meter. If its still jumping around and spiking Throw another voltage regulator at it.
Note: The battery can be bad and cause this also.

Physically connected but electrically insulated = no workie and loss of hair.

 

[Speedman]

the battery is brand new and I will check connections

 

[mtolley]

what motor you runnin? havent kept up with all of the threads to know.the stator creates the current,channels it through voltage regulators and rectifiers. rectifiers change ac current(which the stator produces) to dc current. some motors dont use voltage regulators depending on the output amperage of the stator,ie. merc 260's have a 16 amp system(i belive this numbers correct) and they dont use a regulater because the electronics pretty much consume the output charge. most newer fishin motors(merc) use a 40 amp system and do have regulator/rectifier(usually built together) to control charging voltage. id check the regulater first and also the stator. NEW does not nesasarely mean its GOOD! also test the battery anyway, most auto parts stores will do this for free. NEW doesnt mean its GOOD. if the batterys been getting hit with 16 volts it can fry it as it was/is not design to have but @ 14.5 volts fully charged. high voltages will also cook the electronics(switchboxes, ecu's,etc) so its best to get a handle on it quickly or it can get expensive! if i can help in any way let me know. i can take pics of the manual and send it to you,or i believe cdi/rapair did have a troubleshooting guide available online at one time. if i can find the link ill post it. good luck! mt

 

[CHRIS IND]

Is it an EFI engine?

The high voltage could be causing problems in the ECU as they can be sensitive to supplied voltage, making it shutdown.

All the 260s I've owned have voltage regulators. However, I have ran them without to improve battery charging when running low RPMs for extended periods of time.

I agree with the above post--get the high voltage problem fixed first.

Chris

 

[Speedman]

its a 97 225 promax, I have the manual for it and I will be testing out before put it back in the water, thanks

 

[whipper]

Speedman I have a 96 225promax and mine did the same thing as yours! My battery was brand new so I never thought it was the battery but it is the stinken battery!! It will charge up to a full charge on the charger but wont hold the charge very long while running and dooh! I got a good battery but not a great battery the new one will be an Opimum or the the likes. At higher rpm she holds a charge not bad but if I run the stereo or idle very long she koncks out and I boost it with the battery booster and keep the rpms up and Im good for a while again. If I leave it overnight theres no juice the next day to turn over or very little.That was the tell all right there because the day before she was OK putten her on the trailer and the next day never put the charger on and at the ramp she wouldnt turn over. James

 

[Speedman]

yeh, but my volt meter has run high ever since I had my rebuild, and I checked the battery and it's fine, I am gonna start with the regulators, its the cheapest to replace, then go from there, thanks

 

[Jessie]

I don't know if your problem is your battery or not, but its's a good idea to check the specific gravity of your battery if you can. A fully charged battery should have a specific gravity of 1.28-1.30. Some battery chargers will show a battery fully charged when it isn't.
If you have a lead acid battery, each cell should be checked and each cell should be very close in specific gravity to the others.

 

[Speedman]

Thanks for the info, I am still a little confused on why you guys would think it could be the battery? If the battery didn't hold a charge then why would it start? and once running, isn't it like a a car where you don't even need the battery? and if the battery did hold just enough charge to get it going, then wouldn't it dye during the course of the day? this is what happened a few months ago right before I replaced the battery. How could a bad battery work and then not work and what exactly in the battery could make my engine shut down while running 5k on the tach? I just don't understand??? thanks

 

[GFinch]

The charging system needs the battery to, lack of a better term, restrict voltage out put of the charging system. If there is a broken cell connector the battery is seen as discharged and it is the job of the charging system to fill the battery. A lot of charging systems are destroyed by people disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. The charging system will spike to 600 or so volts.
A broken cell connector is IMHO the leading reason for battery replacement today.

"How could a bad battery work and then not work and what exactly in the battery could make my engine shut down while running 5k on the tach?"

You stated the voltage guage was jumping around, went to 17 volts. Why don't you put a volt meter that reads higher and see what happens.

A DVOM is a necessary tool for you to find out what is wrong.

If the voltage is spiking it very well could bee the reason the engine shut down at 5,000 rpm. Hopefully a fail safe within the ECU.

 

[Speedman]

thanks for the info, I am not much of a back yard mech when it comes to outboards, the more info, the better! If under normal operating conditions, my voltmeter holds at 13 to maybe 14 volts, what in the world is the need for 600 volt output? funny you mention disconnecting the battery, I did that once when the last battery died. I had no jumper cables and the engine would not start. At the time I thought it was just not charged so I disconnected one of the TM batts, hooked it up, started the big motor and then did a fast switch back to the starting battery. It worked and the Merc did charge the battery back up enough for the day. Could I have done some other damage by doing this? I would say the Batt was disconnected for maybe 5-8 seconds?

 

[Speedman]

SO while my mech is snowmobiling in Canada for a week, and he has all the testers and such, you guys are saying a simple battery switch may solve my problem? If is Not the battery and something like a regulator, how long would it take to fry a new battery in terms of running time? an hour, 5 hours? 5 minutes?
just trying to narrow it down

 

[GFinch]

what in the world is the need for 600 volt output?

The battery governs the voltage. The charging system puts out as much as it possibly can, therefor the 600v open circuit voltage.


I would say the Batt was disconnected for maybe 5-8 seconds?[/quote]

Electricity is fast. Sound is fast. My boat is slow and I am slower.

Have you checked the attachment point of the voltage regulator? How about the stator windings and diode bridge connections.

The charging system coil burned, big winding, the small wire that you can see is the ignition system charge winding lead. When the Alternating voltage passed into the ignition charging wire and spiked the power pack, which then decided to adjust the timing on that cylinder a little more advanced then the spec. called for.

This was caused by this.